Waves & Tides Review

Front

What is a tidal bulge?

Back

A tidal bulge is the deformation of the ocean's surface caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun, resulting in high and low tides.

Front

Define amplitude in the context of waves.

Back

Amplitude is the distance from the centerline of a wave to its crest or trough, indicating the wave's height.

Front

What is the crest of a wave?

Back

The crest is the highest part or top of a wave.

Front

What causes wave refraction?

Back

Waves can be refracted when they move from deep to shallow water, causing them to change speed and direction.

Front

What is a mixed semidiurnal tidal pattern?

Back

A mixed semidiurnal tidal pattern is characterized by two high tides and two low tides of different heights each lunar day.

Front

What is wave height?

Back

Wave height is the vertical distance between the crest and the trough of a wave.

Front

Explain the term 'fetch' in relation to waves.

Back

Fetch refers to the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction, influencing wave size.

Front

What is the trough of a wave?

Back

The trough is the lowest part of a wave, opposite the crest.

Front

How does the gravitational pull of the moon affect tides?

Back

The gravitational pull of the moon creates tidal bulges on the Earth's surface, leading to high and low tides.

Front

What is the difference between neap and spring tides?

Back

Neap tides occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other, resulting in lower high tides and higher low tides, while spring tides occur when the sun and moon are aligned, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.