16.2Understanding Waves and Tides Flashcard

Front

Wave (in the context of oceanography)

Back

A disturbance that transfers energy through water

Answer explanation

In oceanography, a wave is defined as a disturbance that transfers energy through water, making this the correct choice. Other options describe different ocean phenomena but do not accurately define a wave.

Front

What best describes a tide?

Back

The periodic rise and fall of sea level caused by gravitational forces

Answer explanation

The correct choice describes tides as the periodic rise and fall of sea level, which is primarily caused by the gravitational forces exerted by the moon and the sun on Earth's oceans.

Front

Property of a wave that measures the distance between two consecutive crests.

Back

Wavelength

Answer explanation

The property of a wave that measures the distance between two consecutive crests is called wavelength. It is a key characteristic that defines the spatial period of the wave.

Front

Characteristic of a spring tide?

Back

Occurs during the full and new moons

Answer explanation

A spring tide occurs when the sun and moon are aligned, which happens during the full and new moons. This alignment results in the highest tidal ranges, unlike neap tides that occur at right angles.

Front

Calculate the speed of a wave with a wavelength of 10 meters and a frequency of 2 Hz.

Back

20 m/s

Answer explanation

The speed of a wave is calculated using the formula: speed = wavelength × frequency. Here, speed = 10 m × 2 Hz = 20 m/s. Therefore, the correct answer is 20 m/s.

Front

Explain the difference between a spring tide and a neap tide.

Back

Spring tides occur during the full and new moons, while neap tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon.

Answer explanation

Spring tides occur during the full and new moons when the sun, moon, and Earth align, resulting in the largest tidal range. Neap tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon, leading to the smallest tidal range.

Front

Describe how ocean currents are formed.

Back

By the rotation of the Earth and wind patterns

Answer explanation

Ocean currents are primarily formed by the rotation of the Earth and wind patterns. The Coriolis effect, caused by Earth's rotation, influences the direction of these currents, while winds drive surface water movement.

Front

Analyze the effects of tidal patterns on coastal ecosystems.

Back

Tidal patterns can lead to erosion and affect the distribution of nutrients.

Answer explanation

Tidal patterns significantly influence coastal ecosystems by causing erosion and redistributing nutrients, which are vital for the health of these environments. This impact is crucial for maintaining biodiversity and ecosystem balance.

Front

Term for the distance over which the wind blows without interruption across the water surface?

Back

Fetch

Answer explanation

The term 'Fetch' refers to the uninterrupted distance over which wind blows across the water surface, generating waves. It is crucial in understanding wave formation and energy transfer in oceanography.

Front

Which of the following statements is true about neap tides?

Back

They occur when the sun and moon are at right angles.

Answer explanation

Neap tides occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other, leading to lower tidal ranges. This is in contrast to spring tides, which occur during full and new moons and result in the largest tidal range.