Marine Science Ch 4

Marine Science Ch 4

Multiple Select

Which 3 are common wave generating forces?

• Earthquakes

• Meteorite

• Wind

• Landslides

Multiple Choice

slow short winds will create

• large waves

• small waves

Multiple Choice

swells carry energy

• short distances

• long distances

Multiple Choice

waves move

• toward the source of the earthquake

• away from the source of the earthquake

Multiple Choice

water depth influences wave production

• true

• false

Multiple Choice

Which has the highest waves?

• Northern Hemisphere

• Southern Hemisphere

This image of the Earth depicts average wave height. Areas between 40°S and 50°S have the highest waves on average.

Multiple Choice

which has more surface tension?

• warm water

• cold water

Multiple Choice

waves transport water across the oceans

• true

• false

Multiple Choice

The highest part of the wave is called the...

• trough

• crest

• lift

• breech

Water particles move in a circular motion, not in the direction of the wave. Crests are created by the top part of the circle (moving forward), and troughs are created by the lower half of the circle (circling backward). The size of the circle decreases with depth.

Wavelength, period and frequency are closely related to each other. By definition, wavelength is just the distance between two identical points in the adjacent cycles of a wave, and period is the time it takes to complete one cycle of the wave. Frequency is then the number of cycles in a second.

Multiple Choice

The height of the wave from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough is the

• magnitude

• amplitude

• altitude

• impactitude

This figure shows the crest, trough, wavelength, and height of a wave. 

Multiple Choice

the distance between two identical points in the adjacent cycles of a wave

• frequency

• wavelength

• period

• wave speed

Multiple Choice

the time it takes to complete one cycle of the wave

• frequency

• wavelength

• period

• wave speed

Multiple Choice

the number of wave cycles in a second

• frequency

• wavelength

• period

• wave speed

Multiple Choice

in deep water wave speed is dependent on

• frequency

• wavelength

• period

• wave speed

Multiple Choice

when the crest of one wave collides with the trough of another wave

• wave cancellation

• wave reinforcement

Multiple Choice

deep water waves and shallow water waves travel the same

• true

• false

Multiple Select

whether a wave is a deep water wave or shallow water wave depends on which two factors

• wave period

• ocean depth

• wavelength

• wave frequency

This diagram displays the difference between deep-water, intermediate, and shallow waves. Deep water waves do not feel the bottom, whereas intermediate and shallow water waves do.

Multiple Choice

speed of deep water waves depends on wavelength not depth

• true

• false

Multiple Choice

A deep water wave travels in water thats deeper than _______ of its wavelength

• 1/2

• 3x

• 1/4

• 2x

Multiple Choice

speed of shallow water waves depends on wavelength not depth

• true

• false

Multiple Choice

As waves approach shore their circulation becomes

• more rounded

• more elliptical

This diagram shows how the shape of waves change from offshore to shore. Water motion changes from circular motions to more elliptical in shape, and the drag of the water on the bottom causes the waves to break on shore.

Multiple Choice

how do you think waves approach the shore?

• perpendicular to the ground

• parallel to the ground

• at an angle

Multiple Choice

As a wave moves toward the shore, the particles of water are transported toward the shore and down the beach in the direction of the waves. This is called

• longshore transport

• shortshore transport

As waves move towards shore, they can refract. These refractions, or longshore transport, can lead to rip currents, if the areas where water can return to the ocean are narrow. 

Multiple Choice

Tsunamis are only caused by earthquakes

• true

• false

Multiple Choice

waves traveling in depth between 1/2 and 1/20th of their wavelength are

• shallow water waves

• intermediate waves

• deep water waves

This diagram shows the movement of a standing wave, oscillating around a node. The antinodes experience the wave’s crest and trough, and the node remains motionless.

Multiple Choice

The rhythmic pattern of rising and falling sea surfaces is known as

• waves

• tides

• currents

Multiple Choice

A full tidal cycle takes.....

• ~12 hours

• ~25 hours

• ~46 hours

• ~8 hours

Multiple Choice

Why is the moons pull stronger than the suns?

• the sun is much bigger

• the moon is closer

• the heat of the sun repels gravitational forces

• gravitational pulls are stronger at night

The Earth-Moon system. The Moon’s gravity causes water to bulge toward it on the side of the Earth closest to the Moon. On the opposite side, farthest from the Moon, centrifugal force causes water to bulge in the opposite direction. 

Multiple Choice

High tides and low tides occur at the same time every day

• true

• false

Clocks showing full tidal cycle taking 50 minutes longer than the twenty four hours it takes Earth to make a complete rotation. At midnight and at twelve twenty five in the afternoon, there is high tide. At six twelve in the morning and six thirty seven in evening, there is low tide.

Multiple Choice

When the Sun and the Moon are in line with each other, which happens at the full and new moons, their gravitational effects

• negate eachother

• add together

Multiple Choice

when there is a big difference between high tide and low tide (because the sun and moon are aligned) is called

• spring tides

• neap tides

Spring tides are large and occur when the Sun and Moon are aligned (during new and full moons). Neap tides are small and occur when the Sun and Moon are at right angles (during the first and third quarter).

Multiple Choice

Which is the most common type of tides?

• semidiurnal

• mixed semidiurnal

• diurnal

Multiple Choice

Which is the most common type of tides?

• semidiurnal

• mixed semidiurnal

• diurnal

Semidiurnal tides have two high tides and two low tides of similar height within a 24 hour period. Mixed semidiurnal tides have two high tides and two low tides of different heights each day. Diurnal tides have one high and one low tide per day.

Multiple Choice

what type of tide do we have here on the east coast?

• semidiurnal

• mixed semidiurnal

• diurnal

Semidiurnal tides are found on the east coast of North America and most of Europe and Africa. Mixed semidiurnal tides are found on the west coast of the U.S. and Canada. Diurnal tides occur on the coast of Antarctica and parts of the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean, and Pacific. 

Multiple Choice

which is more easily affected?

• waves

• tides

Multiple Choice

when tide water rushes back to the sea it is called

• Flood tide

• Ebb tide

• Slack water

Multiple Choice

The magnitude of the difference in elevation between low and high tides at a particular point in a body of water.

• tidal amplitude

• tidal wavelength

• tidal period

• tidal frequency

Multiple Choice

Tides are ONLY affected by the moon

• true

• false

Multiple Choice

Tides are ONLY affected by the moon

• true

• false