Lesson Ocean Waves

Ocean Waves and Tides

What are waves?

• transmission of energy through matter

• The matter itself is moved by the wave itself in a circular pattern

• Orbital waves are the waves that are most often witnessed in the ocean. Orbital waves move in a circular motion as the energy passes.

Multiple Choice

What is the primary source of energy that generates most ocean waves?

• earthquakes
• wind
• asteriods falling in the ocean
• volcanic eruptions

Multiple Choice

What is represented at point 4?

• wave height
• wavelength
• crest
• trough

Multiple Choice

What is represented at point 3?

• wave height
• wavelength
• crest
• trough

Multiple Choice

What is represented at point 2?

• wave height
• wavelength
• crest
• trough

Multiple Choice

What is represented at point 1?

• wave height
• wavelength
• crest
• trough

Multiple Choice

Ocean waves are known as orbital progressive waves, what does this mean?

• Ocean waves get taller as they move forward.

• The energy in the wave moves in a circular pattern as it moves up and down.

• The energy in the wave moves up and down as it moves forward.

• The energy in the wave move in a circular pattern as it move forward.

Multiple Choice

What is transferred from place to place by waves?

• matter

• energy

• particles

• light

Breakers

• the region of the shore where waves collapse

• There is a mathematical reason why waves collapse, the height to length ratio

• When the height of a wave exceeds 1/7 of the length of the wave, the wave will collapse

• In deep water, this is usually caused by wind

• n shallow water near shore, wave height builds as water depth gets more shallow

3 types of breakers

• 1. Plunging breakers form where the ocean floor is moderately steep, beautiful curl at the top (think surfing)

• 2. Spilling breakers - occur where the ocean floor is gradual

• 3. Surging breaker - occur where the floor is very steep - destructive

Multiple Choice

As ocean waves approach the shore, the top curls over and crashes into the sand. What do we call theses waves?

• breakers
• rip tides
• longshore currents
• tsunamis

Multiple Choice

Why do waves increase in height as they approach the shore?

• waves are forced into inlets
• water particles speed up
• water density increases
• they interact with ocean floor

Seiche

seiche is a back and forth wave in a confined body of water

caused by winds or earthquakes

Tsunamis

Occur due to underwater earthquakes. The movement of the Earth's crust creates a wave

Multiple Choice

Which picture better relates to "Tsunami"?

Multiple Choice

A standing wave that moves back and forth in a lake is called ____________

• swell
• tide
• rogue
• seiche

Tides

• Daily variations in sea level caused by the pull of the moon and sun

• 3 types that depend on the shape of the ocean basin

Multiple Choice

A single high and low tide daily is called a ______ tide. Two equal high and low tides daily is called a _______ tide.

• Diurnal; mixed

• Mixed; semidiurnal

• Diurnal; semidiurnal

• Mixed; diurnal

Multiple Choice

____________ is what you call an area with TWO HIGH and TWO LOW tides each day, but they are NOT the same size.

• Diurnal Tide

• Semi Diurnal Tide

• Mixed Tide

• Rip Tide