Coastal and Geomorphic Processes

The movement of water down the beach.

Waves which help build up material on the beach. They tend to have a low frequency and strong swash.

Wooden or rock structures built out at right angles into the sea.

When small rocks and sediment is left behind, eg when a river loses its energy and is unable to carry its load any further, or waves move sand onto a beach but lack the energy to carry it away.

Waves which remove material from the beach. The swash is weaker than the backwash.

How far a wave has travelled.

The movement of material along a coastline due to the angled approach of waves.

The water flowing towards a beach when a wave breaks.

The breaking down of rocks in situ by the action of weather, plants, animals and chemical processes

This type or erosion refers to the wearing down of rocks and pebbles as they hit the sea bed and each other, breaking into smaller and more rounded pieces.