Coast KQ 1 Part 1

Waves are generated when the energy from _______ blowing across seas and oceans is transferred to the water surface.

At high tide, the sea level reaches up to the _________ zone.

• offshore

• nearshore

• foreshore

• backshore

Examples of more resistant (harder) rocks are:

• granite

• basalt

• shale

• chalk

Wave _____ is the horizontal distance from crest to crest or from trough to trough.

Wave _______ is the number of wave crests or troughs that pass a fixed point in a given period of time.

• height

• length

• frequency

• gradient

The ______ is the highest part of a wave.

Wave energy depends on which of the following factors?

• Wind speed

• Fetch

• Wave height

• Wind duration

Constructive waves have a ______ swash and a ______ backwash.

• weak, strong

• strong, weak

Destructive waves produce a ______ swash and a ______ backwash.

• weak, strong

• strong, weak

In wave refraction, waves tend to ______ on headlands and ______ at bays.

• diverge, converge

• converge, diverge