CFU Coastal Processes Part 1

How does energy in a wave relate to the transformation of a beach?

• The more energy, the less the beach changes

• The less energy, the more the beach changes

• The energy of the wave isn't related to beach transformation

• the more energy, the more the beach changes

Which of these is NOT true about the wind-generation of waves?

• Energy exchange depends on how fast the wind blows

• Energy exchange depends on how long the wind blows

• Energy exchange is dependent on the shape of the ocean floor.

• Energy exchange depends on how far the wind blows (across the sea)

Oscillatory waves become translatory waves when...

• water depth increases to more than half of a wavelength

• water depth decreases to less than half of a wavelength

• water depth decreases to less than a wavelength

• water depth increases to more than a wavelength

How is energy of an ocean wave dissipated as it approaches the shore?

• formation of subsequent waves or currents, the combining of two or more waves, and movement of sediment

• splitting into multiple smaller waves, the breaking of the wave itself, and movement of sediment

• formation of subsequent waves or currents, the breaking of the wave itself, and trenches on the shore

• formation of subsequent waves or currents, the breaking of the wave itself, and movement of sediment

What are the 3 wave types mentioned in the article?

• Spilling, plunging, and surging breakers

• Spilling, diving, and surging breakers

• Filling, spilling, and flooding breakers

• Diving, plunging, and sinking breakers