Big Wave Surfing Journey with Greg Long

Greg Long, a professional big wave surfer, shares his journey of embracing fear as a motivator. He recounts his early life in San Clemente, his transition to professional surfing, and his adventures around the world. Greg describes a near-death experience at Cortes Bank, which led him to reflect on fear and growth. Despite the risks, he continues to surf, viewing the ocean as a metaphor for life, where adapting to change is key.

What does Greg Long identify as a key motivator for riding big waves?

• The challenge of nature

• The fear of failure

• The beauty of the ocean

• The thrill of competition

Where did Greg Long grow up, and what is this place known for?

• San Diego, known for its sandy beaches

• San Clemente, known for its small perfect waves

• San Clemente, known for its big waves

• Los Angeles, known for its urban surfing spots

What significant decision did Greg make at the age of 18?

• To start a surfing school

• To retire from surfing

• To sign a professional contract and focus on big wave surfing

• To pursue a career in competitive surfing

Which location is described as having the ability to produce the largest rideable waves?

• Cortes Bank

• Puerto Escondido

• Mavericks

• Todos Santos

What was Greg's primary goal during his trip to Cortes Bank?

• To teach surfing to locals

• To win a surfing competition

• To explore new surfing spots

• To ride the biggest wave of his life

What did Greg experience during his wipeout at Cortes Bank?

• A smooth ride to the shore

• A minor fall with no injuries

• A successful ride on the wave

• A near-death experience with severe physical impact

After his recovery, what realization did Greg come to about his life?

• He wanted to retire from surfing

• He should start a surfing school

• He was living in fear and needed to embrace change

• He should focus on competitive surfing

What metaphor does Greg use to describe life?

• A calm sea

• A constant storm

• A moving playing field

• A static landscape

What event prompted Greg to return to big wave surfing after his promise to quit?

• A new surfing competition

• A call for the Mavericks Big Wave Contest

• An invitation to a surfing school

• A personal challenge from a friend

How does Greg view the new feelings of fear he experiences?

• As signs of weakness

• As obstacles to avoid

• As reasons to quit

• As opportunities for growth