Waves Approaching Shore

What is the primary factor that determines the height of ocean waves?

• Wind direction

• Water temperature

• Wind speed and duration

• Moon phases

Which type of wind can create waves as high as two thirds the height of Niagara Falls?

• Normal winds

• Gentle breezes

• Hurricane winds

• Tornado winds

What are smooth waves near the shore, caused by distant winds and storms, called?

• Breakers

• Swells

• Crests

• Troughs

Tags

NGSS.MS-PS4-1

NGSS.MS-PS4-2

In addition to ocean waves, which other types of waves have features in common according to scientists?

• Earthquake waves

• Sound waves

• Electric waves

• Particle waves

Tags

NGSS.MS-PS4-1

NGSS.MS-PS4-2

What is the distance from one wave crest to the next called?

• Wave height

• Wave period

• Wave frequency

• Wavelength

How do water particles near the ocean surface move as a wave passes?

• Up and down vertically

• Side to side horizontally

• In a circular motion

• Stationary

Tags

NGSS.MS-PS4-2

When a wave reaches the shore, what happens to its wavelength and height?

• Wavelength decreases, height stays the same

• Wavelength increases, height decreases

• Wavelength shortens, height increases

• Wavelength lengthens, height decreases

Tags

NGSS.MS-PS4-2

What is the term for a wave collapsing onshore in a tumble of water?

• Breaker

• Swell

• Trough

• Crest

How do waves shape shorelines around the world?

• By freezing water in place

• By melting rock formations

• By melting rock formations

• By creating new landmasses

Tags

NGSS.MS-PS4-2

What creates a longshore current of water that runs along the shore?

• Tides

• Earthquakes

• Volcanic activity

• Waves colliding with the shoreline