Oceanography Wave Calculations

When energy is transferred to ocean water from the moving air above it, what happens to most of the energy?

• It moves through the water.

• It pushes the water forward.

• It reflects off the surface of the water.

• It causes the water to evaporate.

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What is the relationship between wind and ocean waves?

• Wind moving at higher speeds will transfer more energy to the water, resulting in stronger waves.

• Wind moving at higher speeds will transfer energy over a larger part of the ocean water, resulting in waves with a shorter wavelength.

• Winds moving at higher speeds with cause water to move forward at faster rates, causing larger ocean waves.

• Winds moving at higher speeds will affect deeper water, resulting in waves that move at a faster rate.

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How do water particles in a wave move?

• The particles move forward with the wave.

• The particles move in a circular motion.

• The particles move up and down.

• The particles stay still.

What happens to the water particles in a wave?

• The wave pushes the water particles forward.

• The water particles move in a circular pattern.

• The wind pushes the water particles down.

• The water particles move up through the wave.

What happens to beaches over time?

• They can change suddenly, such as after a storm, or they can change slowly, such as when high tides erode a shoreline cliff.

• Beaches undergo little change—any sand that is eroded is added back by rivers that flow nearby.

• They only undergo a number of sudden changes when tsunamis hit their shores.

• Beaches undergo little change since any buildup of landforms will be broken apart by the waves.

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Which of the following will produce the largest ocean waves?

• Strong winds that blow for a long time over a great distance.

• Strong winds that blow for short periods of time over great distances.

• Strong winds that blow for long periods of time over small distances.

• Strong winds that blow for short periods of time over small distances.

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What weather would create the smallest waves?

• Strong winds that have been blowing for a long time with a long fetch.

• Strong winds that blow for short periods of time with a short fetch.

• Weak winds that blow for long periods of time with a long fetch

• Weak winds that blow for short periods of time with a short fetch.

Which factors play a role in creating ocean waves?

• wind speed, direction, duration, and fetch

• wind speed and direction

• wind speed, direction, and duration

• wind direction and fetch

What is the result of wave motion on water particles?

• Water particles barely move forward; they move in a circular pattern.

• Water particles are pushed down as they move side to side.

• Water particles barely move forward as they move up and down.

• Water particles are pushed forward as they move up and down.

What occurs as energy is transferred through a wave?

• Water particles are set in a circular motion.

• Water particles are pushed forward by the wind.

• Water particles are pulled backwards by the wind.

• Water particles are set in a vertical motion.

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