Ocean Waves and Current Review

The movement of water parallel to the beach due to waves approaching at angles is called ____________.

• Global current

• Rip current

• Longshore current

• Deepwater current

As waves slow down near the shore, they get ____________.

• Further apart

• Closer together

If the frequency of a wave increases this means that ____________

• All of the above

• 1. There are more waves in a given distance

• 1. There is more energy being transferred

• 1. The wavelength has decreased

Tags

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1. Near shore, the top of a wave outruns the bottom of a wave because of _______.

• 1. The bottom of the wave is dragging along the ocean floor

• Water is moving up from the bottom

Tags

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Which of the following is most dense? Check all that apply.

• Warm water

• Cold water

• Freshwater

• Saltwater

Which of the following prevent beach erosion? Check all that apply.

• Breakerwall

• Jetty

• Dune wood fence

• Groyne/groin

Tags

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In order to prevent beach erosion, some areas have utilized this method of pumping sand from the nearby ocean floor to replace missing beaches. This is ___________.

• a seawall

• a jetty

• dredging

• a groin/groyne

Tags

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1. Continuous and directed movements of water are called ________.

• Coriolis effect

• gyres

• jettys

• groins

Tags

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True or false. Jettys and groins/groynes are the two most common beach erosion structures on Long Island

• True

• False

Tags

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What is erosion?

• Addition of plants

• Wearing away of plants

• Wearing away of sediment

• Addition of sediment

Tags

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