2005 Maui Film Festival Tribute to Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama

The speaker discusses the mental challenges faced before surfing, such as ignoring surf reports and dealing with anxiety and adrenaline. They also talk about fear, particularly when observing others making mistakes on waves, and the importance of recognizing when to be truly fearful.

What does the speaker try to ignore before a big surf?

• The weather forecast

• The advice of friends

• The sound of the ocean

• Surf reports and gossip

How does the speaker describe the transition from tiredness to energy?

• It occurs after a good night's sleep

• It requires a strong cup of coffee

• It is an instant change due to adrenaline

• It happens gradually over the day

What is a common cause of fear for the speaker when watching others surf?

• Feeling the cold water

• Hearing a loud noise

• Noticing a change in the wind

• Seeing a friend on a giant wave

When does the speaker believe fear is most justified?

• During a calm sea

• Before entering the water

• When caught under a wave

• While watching surf reports

What does the speaker suggest is a sign of true fear?

• Hearing a distant rumble

• Feeling tired

• Seeing the whites of the eyes

• Being under the water like a rag doll