Ocean Waves and Their Impact

What causes normal ocean waves to form?

• Volcanic eruptions

• Frictional drag of wind on water

• Tidal forces

• Earthquakes

What is the term for the distance between wave crests?

• Wavelength

• Wave speed

• Wave period

• Wave height

What is the 'fetch' in relation to ocean waves?

• The depth of the ocean

• The speed of a wave

• The distance over which the wind has blown

• The height of a wave

What are waves called that have been generated elsewhere and travel long distances?

• Swell

• Tsunami

• Constructive waves

• Choppy waves

What happens to waves when they enter shallow water?

• They speed up and become lower

• They slow down and become steeper

• They disappear

• They maintain their speed and height

What is the term for the water moving up the beach after a wave breaks?

• Backwash

• Fetch

• Trough

• Swash

Which type of breaker is characterized by a classic barrel shape?

• Spilling breaker

• Plunging breaker

• Surging breaker

• Refracting breaker

What process causes waves to become parallel to the coastline?

• Diffraction

• Interference

• Reflection

• Refraction

What happens to waves when they pass through a gap between two islands?

• They stop

• They become taller

• They speed up

• They spread out in all directions

Why is understanding wave dynamics important for coastal management?

• To prevent erosion and manage coastlines

• To improve shipping routes

• To increase fish populations

• To predict weather patterns