Ocean Waves Part 1

Front

What is the most common generating force of ocean waves?

Back

Wind

Front

What is the most common restoring force of ocean waves?

Back

Gravity

Front

Define wave height in the context of ocean waves.

Back

Wave height is the vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest.

Front

What does the term 'fetch' refer to in oceanography?

Back

Fetch is the distance over which wind travels in a constant direction (unobstructed).

Front

What is represented at point 4 in a wave diagram?

Back

Wave height.

Front

How is amplitude defined in relation to wave height?

Back

Amplitude is 1/2 the wave height.

Front

What is the relationship between wave height and wave energy?

Back

Higher wave heights generally indicate greater wave energy.

Front

What factors can influence the height of ocean waves?

Back

Wind speed, wind duration, and fetch.

Front

Explain the difference between wave height and amplitude.

Back

Wave height is the total vertical distance from crest to trough, while amplitude is half of the wave height.

Front

What role does gravity play in wave formation?

Back

Gravity acts as the restoring force that pulls waves back to equilibrium after being disturbed.