Advise and Consult

Advise and Consult

Tests and Testing

Tests in Hairdressing

• Porosity

• Elasticity

• Skin Test

• Incompatibility Test

• Colour Test/Test Cutting

• Strand Test

Porosity Test

This is to to identify if the cuticles are smooth or rough and carried out before any service on dry hair by taking a few hairs and sliding your fingers along the hair shaft in the direction of point to root.

Porosity Test cont.

• The hair cuticle should feel smooth if the

  hair is non-porous and you can proceed with

  chemical services.

• If the result is adverse and the hair feels very

  rough or raised, the hair is very porous – do

  not use chemicals as they may cause damage

  to the client’s hair or the desired outcome

  may not be achieved.

• If the hair is slightly porous, or porous

  on mid-lengths and ends only, consider a

  porosity leveller, treatment, restructurant, and cut the hair prior to the service.

Multiple Choice

How do we do a porosity test?

• Stretch the hair by pulling it and releasing it to see how much it stretches

• Before any service on dry hair.

  Take a few hairs and slide your

  fingers along the hair shaft in the

  direction of point to root.

Elasticity Test

We do this test to to test the strength of

the cortex the inner part of the hair structure before any service on wet hair. We do this by taking one or two hairs and mist them lightly with water, then stretch the hair a couple of times between your finger and thumb.

Elasticity Test Cont.

• Good elasticity means that wet hair should

  stretch up to 50% more than its original

  length and return when released.

• If the result is adverse, the hair is weak and

  lacks elasticity, so when stretched it may

  snap or stay in its stretched length – do not

  use chemicals as they will cause damage to

  the client’s hair or the desired outcome may

  not be achieved.

• Offer penetrating treatments, or Opalux

  restructurant, or conditioning colours, such

  as semi-permanent colours.

Multiple Choice

When carrying out an elasticity test how much will hair stretch when wet?

• Up to 20% of its original length

• Up to 50% of its original length

Skin Testing

We do this to test for an allergic reaction or sensitivity to the product. This is done 24–48 hours before a colour service.

Always follow MFIs as these may vary. As a guide, clean an area in the inner elbow or behind the ear. Then apply the client’s chosen colour

(possibly mixed with peroxide, depending on MFIs) to the area and leave it exposed to dry.

Skin Test Cont.

• A negative reaction is no change to the skin

  area. Proceed with service.

• A positive adverse reaction is red skin and/

  or sore areas that may weep and itch.

• Do not apply colour to the scalp as the client

  may suffer with a severe reaction, such

  as anaphylactic shock.

• Re-test with an alternative product in 24–48 hours’ time.

• The active ingredient that causes the allergy is paraphenylenediamine (PPD)

Reaction to colour

• Swelling

• Redness

• Itching

• Anaphylactic shock

Multiple Choice

Why do we skin test?

• To check for a reaction to unknown chemicals in styling products

• To check for a reaction to paraphenylenediamine (PPD) in hair colourants

Incompatibility Test

We do this to identify if any metallic salts are present, which would react with professional colouring products.

Incompatibility Test Cont.

• This is carried out prior to the colouring or lightening service, if you suspect metallic salts are present in the hair.

• Take a small cutting of the client’s hair and place it in a 20:1 solution of 20 ml liquid peroxide and 1ml (2 drops) ammonium hydroxide. (perm lotion) and leave for up to 30 mins

Incompatibility Test Cont.

• Nothing will happen if the result is negative

  and you can proceed with the service.

• If the result is adverse and positive it means

  there are metallic salts present and the hair

  cutting may change colour, and the solution

  may bubble, fizz and/or give off heat.

• Do not apply chemical products to your client’s hair as they may experience scalp burns and/or damage to, or disintegration of, the hair.

• Offer an alternative service that is chemical-free and re-test in two-three weeks’ time.

Multiple Choice

What would be a positive reaction to an incompatibility test?

• Nothing happens and the hair is fine

• The solution you put the hair cutting in would heat up, fizz and bubble

Colour Test/ Test Cutting

This test is carried out to see if the desired result is achievable and done prior to a colour or lightening service at the consultation.

Its done by mixing and applying the chosen colour to a section of the hair (either a test cutting or on the head).

Colour Test/Test Cutting Cont.

• The desired result should be achieved, or

  further development may be required.

• If the result is adverse, this means the desired result is not achieved with the colour test.

• Identify why and try an alternative product, re-testing before applying the colour.

Multiple Choice

Why do we carry out a colour test/test cutting?

• To check the strenght of the hair

• To see if the colour can be achieved

Strand Test

This test is carried out to to see if the colour result has been achieved, or if the lightener development is sufficient. This is carried out during the colouring or lightening service.

It is done by wiping off the colour or lightener from a few strands of hair checking for full developement of colour

Strand Test Cont.

• If permanent colour is developed, then the

  desired result should be achieved.

• If the bleach is regularly checked, the level

  of lift should be achieved without damage

  to the hair.

• Further development may be required if the colour result has not been achieved.

• If the colour is not achieved, leave the hair to develop for longer

• If the colour is too light, remove the lightener immediately, apply conditioning treatment and then tone with a semi-permanent toner (do not use chemicals).

Multiple Choice

When would you carry out a strand test?

• After the colour service

• During the colour service