Principles of Haircutting

Principles of Haircutting

CHAPTER 16

Good haircuts begin with an understanding of the shape of the head, referred to as the head form, also known as head shape. Hair responds differently on various areas of the head depending on the length and the cutting technique used. Being aware of where the head form curves, turns, and changes will help you achieve the look that you and your client are seeking.

Reference Points

Reference points on the head mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex. These points are used to establish design lines.

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An understanding of head shape & reference points will help you in the following ways:​

• Finding balance within the design, so both sides of the haircut turn out the same

• Developing ability to create the same haircut consistently

• Showing where & when it is necessary to change technique to make up for irregularities (such as a flat crown) in the head form​

Multiple Choice

True or False: understanding Reference Points will help you create consistency in the haircut.

• True

• False

​Widest area of head, starting at temples & ending at bottom of crown.

Easily found by placing comb flat on side of head - parietal ridge is where head starts to curve away from comb.

Also referred to as crest area.​

Parietal Ridge

Bone that protrudes at base of skull.

To find Occipital Bone, feel the back of the skull or place comb flat against the nape to find where comb leaves the head.​

Occipital Bone

Highest point on top of the head.

Found by placing comb flat on top of head.

Comb will rest on that highest point.​

Apex

​Found 2 ways:

​1.Place 2 combs flat against side & back, then locate the back corner at the point where the 2 combs meet.

2.Make​ 2 diagonal lines crossing apex of head, which then point directly to front & back corners

Four Corners

Multiple Choice

This image shows the ___.

• parietal ridge

• occipital bone

• apex

• four corners

Multiple Choice

This image shows the ___.

• parietal ridge

• occipital bone

• apex

• four corners

Multiple Choice

This image shows the ___.

• parietal ridge

• occipital bone

• apex

• four corners

Multiple Choice

This image shows the ___.

• parietal ridge

• occipital bone

• apex

• four corners

You will not necessarily use every reference point for every haircut, but it is important to know where they are.

The location of the 4 corners, for example, signals a change in the shape of the head from flat to round and vice versa. This change in surface can have a significant effect on the outcome of the haircut.

For example, the 2 front corners represent the widest points

in the bang area. Cutting past these points can cause the

bang to end up on the sides of the haircut once it is dry,

creating an undesirable result.​

Multiple Choice

True or False: When cutting fringe, you should cut past the 2 front corners.

• True

• False

Areas of the Head

Top: By locating the parietal ridge, you can find the hair that grows on the top of the head. This hair lies on the head

shape. Hair that grows below the parietal ridge, or crest, hangs because of gravity. You can locate the top by

parting the hair at the parietal ridge, and continuing all the way around the head.

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Front: By making a parting, or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can separate the hair that

naturally falls in front of the ear from the hair behind the ear. Everything that falls in front of the ear is considered

the front.

​

Sides: The sides are easy to locate. They include all the hair from the back of the ear forward, below the

parietal ridge.

​

Crown: The crown area is between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. On many people, the crown is flat and

is the site of cowlicks or whorls. Because of this, it is extremely important to pay special attention to this

area when cutting.

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Nape: The nape is the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone.

The nape can be located by taking a horizontal parting, or by making a horizontal line across the back of

the head at the occipital bone.​

​

Back: By making​ a parting or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can locate the back of the head, which consists of all the hair that falls naturally behind the ear. When you have identified your front, you have also identified the back.

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Bang Area: Also known as fringe area. The bang area is a triangular section that begins at the apex and end at the​ front corners. This area can be found by placing a comb on top of the head so that the middle of the comb is balance on the apex. The spot where the comb leaves the head in from of the apex is where the bang area begins. Note that the bang area, when combed into a natural falling position, falls no farther than the outer corners of the eyes.

Multiple Choice

The highlighted area of the head is considered the ___.

• back

• crown

• nape

Multiple Choice

The highlighted area of the head is considered the ___.

• back

• crown

• nape

Lines, Sections, and Angles

All haircuts are made up of lines, sections, and angles.

A line is a thin, continuous mark used as a guide. The two basic lines used in haircutting are straight and curved. The head itself is made up of curved and straight lines. When you cut lines in a haircut, the hair will fall into a shape.

A section is the working area that the hair is separated into prior to cutting.

An angle is created when the space between two lines or surfaces intersects at a given point. The angle in which you cut the line is what gives the hair direction and shape. Angles are important elements in creating a strong foundation and consistency in haircutting because this is how shapes are created.​

Multiple Choice

A continuous mark used as a guide is a ___.

• line

• section

• angle

Multiple Choice

True or False: Lines in haircutting can be straight or curved.

• True

• False

​Parallel from floor and are relative to the horizon.

Direct eye from one side to the other.

Build weight.

Used to create​ one--length & low elevation haircuts to add weight.

Horizontal Lines

​

Usually described as up & down and are perpendicular to the horizon.

Opposite of horizontal.

Remove weight to create graduated or layered haircuts.

Used with higher elevations​.

Vertical Lines

​

​Between horizontal & vertical and have slanting/sloping direction.

​

Two types:

Diagonal Forward: creates movement toward face.

Diagonal Back: creates movement away from face.​

Diagonal Lines

Multiple Choice

The type of diagonal line that creates movement toward the face is referred to as diagonal ___.

• forward

• back

For control during haircutting, the hair is parted into working areas called sections.

Each section may be divided into smaller areas called subsections.

A part or parting is the line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of hair from another, creating subsections.

Sections are made up of the combination of 2 basic line types, curved and straight.

Sections are used to subdivide sometimes many areas of the head into smaller segments that will be included in the haircut design.​

Taken from recession to recession

Separates the head at parietal ridge to below crown​ allowing you to have control when layering or graduating hair

Horseshoe Section

​

Also referred to as pie shape sections

Rotates from a central point

Used in layering & graduation​

Pivoting Section​

​

Center forehead to center nape

Divides head in 2 sections (right & left profile)

Allows subsectioning to take place​

Profile Section

​

A section that is taken from ear to ear and divides head from front to back starting behind apex in the crown​

Radial Section

​

Multiple Choice

This is an example of a ___ section.

• horseshoe

• pivoting

• profile

• radial

Multiple Choice

This is an example of a ___ section.

• horseshoe

• pivoting

• profile

• radial

Multiple Choice

This is an example of a ___ section.

• horseshoe

• pivoting

• profile

• radial

Multiple Choice

This is an example of a ___ section.

• horseshoe

• pivoting

• profile

• radial

Elevation

Elevation, also known as projection or lifting, is the degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting.

Elevation creates graduation and layers, and is usually described​ in degrees.

In a blunt or one-length haircut, there is no elevation (0 degrees). Elevation occurs when you lift any section of hair above 0 degrees. If a haircut is not a single length, you can be sure that elevation was used.

Once you understand the effects of elevation, you can create any shape you desire.

The most commonly used elevations are 45 and 90 degrees. The more you elevate the hair, the more graduation & layering you create.

Hair elevated below 90 degrees builds weight.

Hair elevated at 90 degrees or higher removes weight.​

The length of hair also affects the end result - the weight of longer hair often makes it appear heavier or less layered.

You will usually need to use less elevation on curly hair than on straighter textures, or leave the hair a bit longer because of shrinkage, which is when hair contracts/lifts through drying.​

Multiple Choice

To remove weight, elevate hair ___ 90 degrees.

• below

• above

Multiple Choice

This haircut ___ use elevation.

• does

• does not

Multiple Choice

This haircut ___ use elevation.

• does

• does not

Multiple Choice

This haircut ___ use elevation.

• does

• does not

Multiple Choice

This haircut ___ use elevation.

• does

• does not

Cutting Line or Finger Angle

The cutting line is the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that creates the end shape. It is also know as cutting position, cutting angle (using degrees), finger angle, and finger position.

The cutting line can be described as horizontal, vertical, diagonal, or by using degrees in relation to the angle to the head.​

​0 Degrees

HORIZONTAL

​45 degrees

DIAGONAL

90 degrees

VERTICAL

Multiple Choice

The elevation highlighted is ___ degrees.

• 0

• 45

• 90

• 180

Multiple Choice

The elevation highlighted is ___ degrees.

• 0

• 45

• 90

• 180

Multiple Choice

The elevation highlighted is ___ degrees.

• 0

• 45

• 90

• 180

Draw

Draw a HORIZONTAL LINE in the box

Draw

Draw a DIAGONAL LINE in the box

Draw

Draw a VERTICAL LINE in the box

Guidelines

A guideline, also known as guide, is a subsection of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut.

Guidelines are located either at the perimeter, the outer line, or the interior inner or internal line, of the cut.

The guideline is usually the first section cut when creating a shape. The two types of guidelines in haircutting are stationary and traveling.​

​Perimeter Guide

Interior Guide

Multiple Choice

True or False: The guideline is usually the first section cut.

• True

• False

Does not move

All other sections combed to the stationary guide and cut at same angle and length

Used in blunt (one-length) haircuts

Also used in haircuts that use overdirection to create a length or weight increase​

Stationary Guide

​Also known as moveable guide

Moves as haircut progresses

Used when creating layered or graduated haircuts

Guideline travels with you as you work through the haircut

When using, you take a small slice of the previous subsection & move it to the next position, or subsection, where it becomes your new guideline​

Traveling Guide

Multiple Choice

This haircut uses a ___ guideline.

• stationary

• traveling

Multiple Choice

This haircut uses a ___ guideline.

• stationary

• traveling

Overdirection is best understood by comparing it to elevation. Whereas elevation is simply the degree to which you lift a section away from the head, overdirection occurs when you comb the hair away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head.

​Overdirection is used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts and where you want to create a length increase in design.

For example, you are working on a layered haircut and want the hair to be longer toward the front; you can overdirect the sections to a stationary guide at the back of the ear. Or, if you are creating a haircut with shorter layers around the face and longer layers in the back, you can overdirect sections to a stationary guide at the front.​

Overdirection

Multiple Choice

For shorter layers in the front, and longer layers in the back, overdirect the hair ___.

• forward

• backward

Multiple Choice

To keep hair longer in the front, and shorter in the back, overdirect the hair ___.

• forward

• backward

Multiple Choice

This haircut used ___ overdirection.

• forward

• backward