Unit 201 Style and Finish Hair

Unit 201 - Style and Finish

Completing a finishing and styling service to a professional standard

Learning Intentions

​By the end of the lesson you will be able to:

Consider different factors and influences when styling and finishing

Outline the basic science behind blow drying

Identify tools and techniques

Describe how different effects and movements are created during the finishing process

​What different factors should we consider when finishing the hair?

​Texture

Head and face shape

​Growth patterns

Hair cut and length

​Density

Elasticity

Porosity

Visible damage

Hair type

​Questioning, observation and investigation will help you to determine these important influencing factors. You then have the information you need to choose the most appropriate brushes, tools

and products

needed to

create

and sustain

the clients

desired finish.

Hair texture: Fine

What should we consider?

• Product
  Fine hair will need less product to avoid overloading.
  The product should support the style and give body and volume for example, root boost spray/styling dust

• Tools
  Round brushes will promote lift at the root and add volume and movement

• Equipment
  Air flow and temperature should be lowered to ensure fine hair doesn't dry too quickly before it is set in place

Multiple Choice

Hair with a coarse texture can often appear rough and dry - what kind of product would coarse hair benefit from during the styling process?

• Salt spray

• Shine serum

• Root boost spray

Fill in the Blanks

Multiple Choice

What equipment would you most recommend when carrying out a finishing service for coarse hair?

• A blow dry with no attachment and a paddle brush

• A rough, finger dry

• A blow dry with a nozzle followed by a straightening service

​Like fine hair, sparse hair needs less product, gentle airflow and a reduction in heat temperature to encourage body, volume and allow control before the hair sets in place during a finishing service

Sparse

​Abundant hair will need more product to ensure the whole head has good coverage. It's best to avoid products that give lots of volume and work with products that smooth the cuticle and add shine

​​Abundant

​Lets talk about density

​More about abundant hair...

Abundant hair will always need more time to dry! It is good practice to start your drying service with a 'rough dry' before sectioning and methodically blow drying. This helps to remove excess moisture and reduce the drying time.

You should then work in smaller sections, starting at the root and ensuing the root area is thoroughly dry before moving to the lengths and ends.

Use a nozzle to direct air flow and a brush that will encourage a smooth finish without creating a lot of volume.

Multiple Choice

Working with a gentle air flow when drying sparse hair helps to...

• Retain control as you set the hair into place

• Reduce the risk of heat damage

• Speed up drying time

Multiple Choice

Working with smaller sections when blow drying dense hair helps to...

• Ensure the product is evenly spread as you dry

• Reduce drying time

• Ensure the hair is totally dry

​​Type 1 - Straight

​​Type 2 - Wavy

​​Type 3 - Curly

​​Type 4 - Coiled

• Straight hair has a resistance to curl. Use products that aid body and volume and techniques such as double brush blow dry to help promote long lasting curls and movement

• Is easier to work with and will often form well into straight and curly finishes.

• You can use a variety of brushes, products and hot tools but there is no need for excessive heat

• Usually has a combination texture and is often fizzy. Benefits from products that smooth and enhance natural curls and a diffused drying service. Tongs can help to define curls further

• Is generally quite fragile, can be prone to damage from drying services. This hair type will benefit from a lot of product to help retain moisture and gain protection from any heat used.

Open Ended

Often a client will provide us with a picture to inspire a certain finish. Look at the picture provided - can you identify the different tools, products and drying techniques a stylist might have used to create this look?

​Tools and equipment

There are many different types of combs, brushes, tools and attachments that we use in the styling process to suit different hair types, textures and densities and to create different looks.

Carry out research or use your existing knowledge to consider the best use of the following tools...

201- Style and Finish

• A wide tooth comb

• A postiche/dressing out comb

• A large round brush

• A flat brush

Multiple Choice

A wide tooth comb is best used for...

• Curling

• Detangling

• Sectioning

Multiple Choice

A large round brush is best use to create...

• Textured, beach waves

• Tight, barrel curls

• Smooth, soft waves

Multiple Choice

A postiche comb is best used for...

• Dressing out curls and back brushing

• Sectioning hair ready for a blow dry

• Detangling frizzy hair

Multiple Choice

A flat brush is best used for...

• Curling

• Straightening

• Smoothing

​Hot tools to finish

There are several different types of hot tool that can be used to create different finishes, such as:

• Hand dryer
  - diffuser
  - rake attachment
  - nozzle

• Hood dryer

• Straighteners

• Curling wand

• Tongs

• Barrel curlers

• Heated rollers

• Crimpers

When using hot tools it is important to only use them for their intended purpose and ensure you are adopting safe working practices to protect yourself and your client. When using a hand dryer it is important to consider and adapt your air flow and temperature.

Suitable/adapted air flow ensures....

• That you are smoothing the cuticle and setting the hair into the correct desired shape

• That you are not disturbing sections that you have already dried

• That you are not burning the scalp

​Suitable/adapted temperature....

• That the hair is thoroughly dried and the cuticle is smoothed

• That the hair is protected from excessive heat

• That you are not burning the scalp

​Why should we avoid excessive heat during a blow dry or hot tool service?

Can cause cuticle damage

​Can increase porosity

​Can reduce elasticity

Hair breakage

​May cause colour to fade

Can cause scalp burns

Encourages split ends

Reduces volume at the root

​Off base winding

Creates volume at the root

​On base winding

Creating sets during a blow dry

A double brush blow dry is an example of a setting technique that we carry out during a blow dry. We take verticle sections of hair, then wind and set the brush off base to cool. Dependent on brush size this creates a soft curl without volume. We can then dress out with a postiche brush, back brushing to add volume

​Backcombing Using a dressing out comb to create firm volume and height at the roots. Using strokes towards to the root area.

Backbrushing Creating volume with a soft effect. Using the softer bristle brush in strokes towards the roots (less height)

​ https://youtu.be/QMko4htbwPQ

Heres a cool video that looks at base winding in a great visual manner!

Open Ended

Write down the products, tools and equipment that you would use to create a medium tightness curl, dressed out with volume and some height at the crown on medium length hair that is between type 2 and 3 and naturally frizzy

The science behind blow drying

​https://youtu.be/C6SDKsUTdhM
The Internal Chemical Bonds of Hair - Martin Green

This video will outline the bonds within the hair and the manner in which they change when we have washed and subsequently dried the hair - the hair state changes from Alpha (it's natural state) to Beta (it's changed state. Remember, remember...

Alpha is alright but Beta is better

Take some time to watch this short video and write down some key notes!

Multiple Choice

What are the effects of humidity on the hair?

• The style will remain in the changed beta keratin state

• The style will drop or revert back to it's natural state of alpha keratin

• Nothing that a good hairspray won't fix!

Multiple Choice

What is one physical effect of the blow drying process on the hair structure?

• The cuticle is permanently opened

• The medulla is broken and reformed

• Beta changes to alpha keratin

• Hydrogen bonds are broken allowing the hair to take new shape when dried

Multiple Choice

Why is it important that sections of the hair are kept wet prior to styling?

• The hair is stretched when wet which allows it to form a new shape as it dries

• To increase service time and allow for additional charges

• To discourage a trend of air dried hair amongst clients

• So the hair can stretch as it dries to revert to alpha

Multiple Choice

Why is it important that the hair is allowed to cool before removing a set or dressing out a hot tool curl?

• To ensure that the hair is thoroughly dry

• To allow the hydrogen bonds to set in their new beta position

• To allow hydrogen bonds to set in their new alpha position

End of session

​Recap on the learning intentions at the beginning of this session - do you feel you can achieve all of the aims?

Extension task, pause for thought - angles

When using different brushes to blow dry how does the angle of our brush movements effect how the hair sits?

Can we alter how the hair moves by changing the direction of our angle and our brush wind?

Why not try some experimentation on your block and see what effects you can create by adapting your drying angles with a round brush - document with a photo and give some verbal feedback in session!