ES 10.5 Wave action

A giant wave usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor.

• Breakers

• tsunami

• wavelength

• undertow

A wall made of rocks or concrete that is built outward from a beach to reduce erosion. Usually built in a series

• undertow

• frequency

• jetty

• groin

The number of complete waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time

• breakers

• frequency

• rip current

• wavelength

The movement of sand along a beach

• longshore drift

• wave height

• frequency

• wave

a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening in a sand bar

• frequency

• wavelength

• undertow

• rip current

the vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough

• frequency

• wavelength

• wave height

• wave break

Horizontal distance between the crests or between the troughs of two adjacent waves

• frequency

• wavelength

• wave break

• wave height

when a waves amplitude reaches a critical level that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy → wave break

• true

• false

a man-made structure built out into the sea with the purpose of creating a safe harbor, marina or anchorage for fishing vessels, and protecting the coast from powerful swells and waves. → breakwater

• true

• false

hills of sand shaped by the wind. They can make a beach more stable and protect the shore from erosion. The strong roots of the plants growing on them hold the sand in place and help control erosion. → wave break

• true

• false