Coasts Introductory Knowledge

What major factor contributes to the formation of waves?

• Wind blowing over the surface of the ocean

• Atmospheric pressure

• Earthquakes

• The movement of fish and whales

The distance over which the wind has blown is called the ..?

• Route

• Fetch

• Fletch

• Fitch

Big waves are produced by ...

• Short fetch and short wind bursts

• Long Fetch and wind blowing for a long time

• Long Fetch and short wind bursts

• Short wind bursts and small fetch

In the Northern Hemisphere, the biggest waves are produced when?

• During the month of April

• During winter storms and typhoons

• During the summer time

• At the weekend

Swash goes ...

• Along the beach

• Down the beach

• Up the beach

• Around the beach

Constructive waves have a ...

• A short wavelength

• Weak swash and strong backwash

• a swash and a backwash

• Strong swash and weak backwash

Hydraulic action is ...

• The rubbing together and wearing down of individual rocks

• The power of the waves to break up rock

• The dissolving of soluble minerals

• Rock thrown against a cliff face

Erosion means ...

• The building up of rock by earth processes

• The dropping of rocky material by wind, water or ice

• The movement of rock from one place to another

• The wearing away of rocks in place

Attrition is ...

• The building up of mountains

• The smoothing and rounding of individual rocks

• The movement of rock from one place to another

• The dissolving of soluble minerals

Destructive waves have ...

• A short wavelength and a strong backwash

• A long wavelength and a strong swash

• A short wavelength an a short backwash

• A long wavelength and a strong swash