Wave Movement - Coasts

Why do waves break when they approach the shore?

• The bottom of the wave speeds up due to decreased friction.

• The top of the wave slows down due to increased friction.

• The bottom of the wave slows down due to increased friction.

• The wave remains stable and does not change shape.

What happens to the top of the wave as it becomes higher and steeper?

• It moves faster than the bottom.

• It flattens out and spreads.

• It topples over.

• It sinks below the bottom of the wave.

What does the term "fetch" refer to in the context of wave energy?

• The strength of the wind

• The distance over which the wind has blown

• The time over which the wind has blown

• The size of the waves

On what factors does wave energy depend?

• The fetch and the strength of the wind

• The time of day and the fetch

• The size of the waves and the time over which the wind has blown

• The temperature of the water and the strength of the wind

What conditions are necessary for the formation of rough waves?

• Long fetch and weak wind

• Short fetch and strong wind

• Long fetch and strong wind

• Short fetch and weak wind

What conditions are necessary for the formation of calm waves?

• Long fetch and strong wind

• Short fetch and weak wind

• Long fetch and weak wind

• Short fetch and strong wind

What type of waves have a strong swash and a weak backwash?

• Destructive waves

• Tsunami waves

• Constructive waves

• Tidal waves

What is the main characteristic of destructive waves?

• They have a strong swash and a weak backwash.

• They are low flat waves.

• They result in deposition being greater than erosion.

• They have a weak swash and a strong backwash.

What happens when deposition is greater than erosion in waves?

• The land is worn away.

• The waves are called destructive waves.

• The land is built up.

• The waves become flat.

Which type of waves result in erosion being greater than deposition?

• Constructive waves

• Tidal waves

• Destructive waves

• Tsunami waves