Action of Waves in Coastlands

True or false - once formed, coastlines never change

• True

• False

• Tralse

Swash can be defined as:

• The water flowing toward a beach when a wave breaks

• The water flowing away from a beach when a wave breaks

• The movement of water away from the beach back into the ocean

• Small fragments of rock and soil that form layers

Backwash can be defined as:

• The water flowing toward a beach when a wave breaks

• The water flowing in from a beach when a wave breaks

• The movement of water away from the beach back into the ocean

• Small fragments of rock and soil that form layers

A constructive wave has ______ swash and ______ backwash

• strong swash and weak backwash

• weak swash and weak backwash

• strong swash and strong backwash

• no swash or backwash

A destructive wave has ______ swash and ______ backwash

• strong swash and weak backwash

• weak swash and weak backwash

• weak swash and strong backwash

• no swash or backwash

Attrition can be defined as:

• Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, the trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.

• Bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper.

• Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother.

• Acids contained in sea water will dissolve some types of rock such as chalk or limestone.

Solution (coastal erosion) can be defined as:

• Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, the trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.

• Bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper.

• Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother.

• Acids contained in sea water will dissolve some types of rock such as chalk or limestone.

Hydraulic action (coastal erosion) can be defined as:

• Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, the trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.

• Bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper.

• Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother.

• Acids contained in sea water will dissolve some types of rock such as chalk or limestone.

Abrasion (coastal erosion) can be defined as:

• Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, the trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.

• Bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper.

• Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother.

• Acids contained in sea water will dissolve some types of rock such as chalk or limestone.

As waves interact with beach sediment, it is transported, which is known as

• Longshore drift

• Drifty longshores

• Longshore stevodores