16.2Understanding Waves and Tides Quiz

What is the definition of a wave in the context of oceanography?

• A large body of water surrounded by land

• A disturbance that transfers energy through water

• A current that flows in the ocean

• A periodic rise and fall of sea level

Answer explanation

In oceanography, a wave is defined as a disturbance that transfers energy through water, making this the correct choice. Other options describe different ocean phenomena but do not accurately define a wave.

Which of the following best describes a tide?

• A continuous flow of water in a particular direction

• A disturbance that transfers energy through water

• The periodic rise and fall of sea level caused by gravitational forces

• A large wave caused by underwater earthquakes

Answer explanation

The correct choice describes tides as the periodic rise and fall of sea level, which is primarily caused by the gravitational forces exerted by the moon and the sun on Earth's oceans.

Identify the property of a wave that measures the distance between two consecutive crests.

• Amplitude

• Frequency

• Wavelength

• Speed

Answer explanation

The property of a wave that measures the distance between two consecutive crests is called wavelength. It is a key characteristic that defines the spatial period of the wave.

Which of the following is a characteristic of a spring tide?

• Occurs when the sun and moon are at right angles

• Results in the smallest tidal range

• Occurs during the full and new moons

• Happens twice a day

Answer explanation

A spring tide occurs when the sun and moon are aligned, which happens during the full and new moons. This alignment results in the highest tidal ranges, unlike neap tides that occur at right angles.

Calculate the speed of a wave with a wavelength of 10 meters and a frequency of 2 Hz.

• 5 m/s

• 10 m/s

• 20 m/s

• 30 m/s

Answer explanation

The speed of a wave is calculated using the formula: speed = wavelength × frequency. Here, speed = 10 m × 2 Hz = 20 m/s. Therefore, the correct answer is 20 m/s.

Explain the difference between a spring tide and a neap tide.

• Spring tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon, while neap tides occur during the full and new moons.

• Spring tides have the smallest tidal range, while neap tides have the largest.

• Spring tides occur during the full and new moons, while neap tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon.

• Spring tides and neap tides occur randomly without any pattern.

Answer explanation

Spring tides occur during the full and new moons when the sun, moon, and Earth align, resulting in the largest tidal range. Neap tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon, leading to the smallest tidal range.

Describe how ocean currents are formed.

• By the gravitational pull of the moon

• By the rotation of the Earth and wind patterns

• By underwater volcanic activity

• By the melting of polar ice caps

Answer explanation

Ocean currents are primarily formed by the rotation of the Earth and wind patterns. The Coriolis effect, caused by Earth's rotation, influences the direction of these currents, while winds drive surface water movement.

Analyze the effects of tidal patterns on coastal ecosystems.

• Tidal patterns have no significant impact on coastal ecosystems.

• Tidal patterns can lead to erosion and affect the distribution of nutrients.

• Tidal patterns only affect human activities like fishing.

• Tidal patterns are responsible for the formation of mountains.

Answer explanation

Tidal patterns significantly influence coastal ecosystems by causing erosion and redistributing nutrients, which are vital for the health of these environments. This impact is crucial for maintaining biodiversity and ecosystem balance.

What is the term used to describe the distance over which the wind blows without interruption across the water surface?

• Fetch

• Drift

• Surge

• Swell

Answer explanation

The term 'Fetch' refers to the uninterrupted distance over which wind blows across the water surface, generating waves. It is crucial in understanding wave formation and energy transfer in oceanography.

Which of the following statements is true about neap tides?

• They occur during the full and new moons.

• They result in the largest tidal range.

• They occur when the sun and moon are at right angles.

• They happen every day.

Answer explanation

Neap tides occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other, leading to lower tidal ranges. This is in contrast to spring tides, which occur during full and new moons and result in the largest tidal range.