Oceanography: Waves

The video explains the formation and characteristics of ocean waves, influenced by wind speed, duration, and distance. It covers the transformation of small waves into swells and the dynamics of surf as waves approach the shore. The video also discusses the dangers of undertows and the creation of tsunamis due to ocean floor disturbances, highlighting a historical tsunami event in Alaska.

What factors determine the size of ocean waves?

• The temperature of the ocean

• The speed, duration, and distance of the wind

• The time of day

• The color of the water

What are swells in the context of ocean waves?

• Waves caused by underwater volcanoes

• Waves that crash directly onto the shore

• Long, wide waves formed by rhythmic patterns

• Small ripples on the water surface

What is the term for the area where waves break and crash on the shore?

• The crest

• The surf

• The swell

• The trough

What is an undertow and why is it dangerous?

• A type of fish that swims near the shore

• A strong current that pulls swimmers out to sea

• A wave that is larger than usual

• A type of seaweed found in shallow waters

What natural event commonly causes tsunamis?

• Earthquakes on the ocean floor

• Hurricanes

• Tornadoes

• Heavy rainfall