Coastal Geography and Wave Processes Worksheet

What is the distance over which the wind blows across water to generate waves?

• Tide

• Swash

• Fetch

• Current

Answer explanation

The distance over which the wind blows across water to generate waves is called 'fetch'. It is a key factor in wave formation, influencing their size and energy.

Which type of wave has a strong swash and weak backwash?

• Destructive

• Constructive

• Tidal

• Regressive

Answer explanation

Constructive waves have a strong swash that pushes sand up the beach and a weak backwash that does not pull much sand back, leading to beach building. In contrast, destructive waves have a strong backwash.

What is the main force responsible for pulling backwash down the beach?

• Friction

• Gravity

• Wind

• Pressure

Answer explanation

Gravity is the main force that pulls backwash down the beach. When waves break, the water flows back towards the ocean, and gravity acts on this water, pulling it down the slope of the beach.

Which erosion process involves compressed air breaking rock apart?

• Abrasion

• Attrition

• Hydraulic action

• Solution

Answer explanation

Hydraulic action is the erosion process where compressed air in water breaks rock apart. This occurs when waves crash against cliffs, trapping air in cracks, which then expands and causes the rock to fracture.

Which statement best describes constructive waves?

• Formed in stormy conditions with strong backwash

• Low-energy waves that deposit sediment on beaches

• Waves with steep height that remove material

Answer explanation

Constructive waves are characterized as low-energy waves that primarily deposit sediment on beaches, contrasting with destructive waves that erode and remove material. Thus, the correct choice accurately describes their nature.

Which process throws sand and pebbles against cliffs?

• Attrition

• Abrasion

• Hydraulic power

• Solution

Answer explanation

Abrasion is the process where sand and pebbles are thrown against cliffs, wearing them down over time. This distinguishes it from other processes like attrition, hydraulic power, and solution, which involve different mechanisms.

Rocks colliding and becoming smaller and rounder is called ...

• Corrosion

• Attrition

• Erosion

• Sedimentation

Answer explanation

Rocks colliding and becoming smaller and rounder is known as attrition. This process occurs when rocks break down through repeated impacts, leading to smoother and smaller fragments.

Which coastline type shows bands of hard and soft rock at right angles to the sea?

• Discordant

• Concordant

• Uniform

• Regular

Answer explanation

The correct answer is 'Discordant' because this coastline type features alternating bands of hard and soft rock that are oriented at right angles to the sea, leading to varied erosion patterns.

Why do bays form between headlands?

• Hard rock erodes faster

• Soft rock erodes more quickly

• Waves only reach the headland

• Waves deposit only on hard rock

Answer explanation

Bays form between headlands because soft rock erodes more quickly than hard rock. This differential erosion creates indentations, leading to the formation of bays as the softer material is worn away by wave action.

What happens when waves lose energy?

• Erosion increases

• Sediment is deposited

Answer explanation

When waves lose energy, they can no longer carry sediment, leading to its deposition. This process contributes to the formation of beaches and other landforms, making 'Sediment is deposited' the correct answer.