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WorksheetsWind, waves and swell
Total questions: 48
Worksheet time: 31mins
Mankind has been greatly interested in the oceans since before the time of Aristotle who wrote treatise on marine biology in the 4th century BC. What is meant by "mankind"?
Mankind has been greatly interested in the oceans since before the time of Aristotle who wrote a treatise on marine biology in the 4th century BC. What is the meaning of "treatise"?
a serious book or article about a particular subject
a song
a poem
catalogue of sea creatures
Mankind has been greatly interested in the oceans since before the time of Aristotle who wrote treatise on marine biology in the 4th century BC. What is the meaning of "BC"?
Before Christ (or Before the Common Era (BCE)
Anno Domini (or Common Era (CE))
It has no meaning.
It means "a very long time ago"
Aristotle ...
lived 384 - 322 bce and was one of the greatest intellectual figures of Western history
studied at Plato's academy in Athens
was an ancient Greek philosopher and scientist (polymath)
tutored Alexander the Great
The volume o all land above sea level is only ____ of the volume of the oceans.
1/18th
1/20th
1/3rd
1/14th
Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790) was the first to refer to the _____ as a “river in the ocean.” Franklin promoted using the Gulf Stream to speed up delivery of mail from America to Europe, as well as to improve other commercial shipping.
Gulf Stream
North Equatorial Current
North Atlantic Current
Canary Current
Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790) prepared temperature tables by means of which navigators could determine whether or not they were in the _____.
Gulf Stream
California Current
Kuroshio Current
Agulhas Current
In 1872 HMS Challenger made her first ____ station on a 3-year round-the world cruise.
oceanographic
hydrographic
meteorologic
geographic
In 1872 HMS Challenger made her first oceanographic station on a 3-year round-the world cruise. It proved for the first time that the various constituents of ____ in sea water are in the same proportion everywhere.
salts
fish
waste
micro-organisms
Oceanography includes the disciplines of ___
physics and chemistry
meteorology
geology
biology
Hydrographers are concerned primarily with the problems of _____. They chart coastlines and bottom topography.
navigation
troposphere
pollution
marine life
A hydrographic survey usually includes measurements of magnetic declination and dip, tides, currents, and weather elements.
True
False
Before the Challenger expedition, Lieutenant Matthew Fontaine Maury (1806-1873) of the U.S. Navy (often called the father of American oceanography) was analyzing the ____ of sailing vessels to determine the best ocean routes and did much to stimulate international cooperation in oceanography and _______
log books/ marine meteorology.
tides/ currents
tables/ hydrography
routes/ sailing speeds
Although the subject of oceanography has many fascinating aspects, we will only discuss wind-generated waves and swell - perhaps the greatest single ________ hazard to navigation in coastal waters and on the open sea.
oceanographic
weather
meteorological
hydrographic
It is important to realize the extent to which wave size and energy (as demonstrated by the destructive power of waves) are related to the (a) of the wind.
Professional mariners are trained and experienced to make frequent estimates of the surface wind speed by noting the (a) of the sea surface.
An instrument which indicates wind speed and direction
anemometer
tachometer
thermometer
radar
Waves ____ masses of horizontally traveling water particles
are
are not
The wave (a) moves horizontally, but the individual water particles describe orbital circular motions, but remain essentially in place with little forward movement.
If we throw a cork over the side, we notice that although the waves move, the surface of the water ____ travel with the waves.
does not
also
According to the course book, waves are generated in ____ fundamental ways in the open sea.
4
3
2
5
Waves can be generated by ...
changes in atmospheric pressure
the wind acting for long periods of time on the water's surface
seismic disturbances such as earthquakes
the tidal attraction of the sun and moon
When waves of different characteristics meet in a relatively small area, a complex pattern of wave motion results, caused by waves reinforcing or interfering with each other in various amounts. It is termed (a) and is very difficult to describe.
Waves that are growing in height under the influence of the wind.
(a)
Wind-generated waves that have left their area of generation and have advanced into regions of weaker winds or calms and are decreasing in height.
(a)
When waves enter shallow water, the friction caused by the bottom will tend to slow down the water particles nearest the bottom, while the upper particles continue with the faster original velocity. As a result the wave first steepens and then breaks. Waves in this condition are referred to as (a)
Waves generated by the action of the sun and moon on the oceans
(a)
Seismic-generated waves
(a)
The maximum wave height scientifically recorded thus far (in 1965) in the North Atlantic was _____ feet by a wave recorder aboard an ocean-station weather vessel, but this does not mean that higher waves did not occur.
67
47
107
87
From a mariner's point of view, the waves that most affect seamanship are those generated by ___
wind
changes in atmospheric pressure
tidal attraction of the sun and moon
seismic disturbances
It is common knowledge among seamen around the world that the longer and harder the winds blow, the (a) will be the waves.
There are ____ most important variables regarding wave relationships.
3
2
4
5
The stretch of water over which the wind blows is called (a)
The length of time that the wind has blown is called (a)
The three most important variables regarding wave relationships are: 1) ____, 2) ____, 3) _____
(your answer should contain three words with a space in between)
(a)
Since (a) , fetch and duration vary within very wide limits, it has been necessary for meteorologists and oceanographers to develop and design special tables, charts, monograms and slide rules to forecast of all the possible variations.
Since wind, (a) and duration vary within very wide limits, it has been necessary for meteorologists and oceanographers to develop and design special tables, charts, monograms and slide rules to forecast of all the possible variations.
answer
Since wind, fetch and (a) vary within very wide limits, it has been necessary for meteorologists and oceanographers to develop and design special tables, charts, monograms and slide rules to forecast of all the possible variations.
answer
The Beaufort Scale enables one to estimate the Beaufort force (or wind speed) from the (a) of the sea
Beaufort No.5 is a fresh breeze with an effect on the sea that produces moderate waves, which take a more pronounced long form; many _______ are formed, and there is a chance of some spray.
white horses
white storks
white cats
white swans
Beaufort No.1 is "light air" that produces scale-like ____, but without foam crests.
ripples
wavelets
waves
mirror
Beaufort No.3 is a gentle breeze that produces large wavelets. Crests begin to break. Foam has ____ appearance. Perhaps scattered white horses.
glassy
oily
choppy
white
Beaufort No.7 is "Moderate gale" when the sea heaps ____ and white foam from breaking waves begins to be blown in streaks ____ the direction of the wind. Spindrift begins.
up/ along
down/ opposite
away/ from
high/ in
The horizontal distance from crest to crest or trough to trough of waves.
(a)
The vertical distance from trough to crest of a wave.
(a)
Spray blown from the crests of waves by the wind (mentioned in Beaufort No.7 and 8).
(a)
Waves that are white at the top (mentioned in Beaufort No.3, 4, 5)
(a)
How are breaking waves (or foam) blown by the wind in Beaufort No.7 and 8?
(a)
