Waves Vocabulary

Wave refraction is the bending of waves as they meet variations in the coastline and seafloor.

Wave height is the vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest.

Wavelength can be measured by the distance from crest to crest or trough to trough.

The most common generating force of waves is wind.

The most common restoring force of waves is gravity.

False. Waves transmit energy, not matter.

Amplitude is the maximum distance that the wave moves from its rest position.

Wavelength is the distance between successive crests or troughs of a wave.

Frequency is the number of waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time, usually measured in Hertz (Hz).

As waves approach the shore, they slow down, increase in height, and may break.