Unit 210 Plait and Twist

Unit 210

Plait & Twist

The Art of Braiding Hair ​

This session describes and prompts discussion on oppression, slavery and racism. If you have been affected by any of these issues or you are upset or triggered by any of these topics, please feel free to excuse yourself from session. Our EPO's are always available to talk to if you need further support.

Session Aims

​To educate and enrich learners on the history and art of braiding hair whilst considering...

• Health and Safety surrounding braiding and twisting services

• Factors that may influence a braid service

• Consideration of tools, equipment and products used

• Techniques to achieve different braids and twists

Learning Outcome

​By the end of this session, you will be able to:

• Identify consultation techniques to determine suitable braids and/or twists for your client

• Demonstrate appropriate tool and product use

• Consider application techniques for your practical session, with the aim to produce cornrows, French and fishtail plaits, two strand and flat twists

The art of braiding

​Why is it so important?

• Braiding is a creative art that encourages discipline, attention to detail and dexterity skills.

• Braiding does not require expensive tools or extensive skill to get started.

• With practice and dedication, you can achieve inclusive, advanced and intricate styles for your clients. There are no limits to what you can achieve.

• The language of braiding is vast and universal, at the heart of many different cultures - you can go anywhere around the world and use your skill - it is loved and practiced world-wide.

• It is often a skill passed from generation to generation.

Hugely popular in the Native American community. Men in particular have re-embraced this style afters years of oppression and assimilation as an expression of cultural and political pride
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Families were known to braid each others hair as an expression of love, strength and a powerful way to reinforce the sacredness of relationships

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In the Native American culture the hair is considered to be sacred, belonging to Mother Earth. The three strand braids represent mind, body and soul and in some First Nations – Love, kindness and honesty

​​Double Three Strand

​​Goddess Braids

Goddess braids date back to Ancient Africa and have a comparable history and appearance to cornrows. The hairstyle was seen as a work of art, creativity, and precision among tribes and was often adorned with metal accents. This look was created by braiding closely to the scalp in thick, often raised, and extremely defined braids.
Made a huge resurgence in popular culture in the 2000's and is considered a wearable style with lower maintainance than Cornrows.
Created on natural hair but is often substituted with synthetic hair to create as much thickness as possible per braid.

Popular predominately with people of colour or mixed heritage with curly, coiled and textured hair.
Dates back 3000 yrs ago to the Eembuvi braids of Namibia tribes who wore them to express wealth and power.
Considered to be a “protective style”.
Usually consists of braided hair shaped in equal square divisions but can also be divided into other shapes such as triangles.
Are easy to maintain and although lengthly to “install” they can then last 6 to 8 weeks.

​​Box Braid

​​Viking Braids

Modern viking braids are inspired by historic Nordic male warriors although females were known to braid their hair too
In the viking age, long hair belonged to people in “higher social classes” who would then braid their hair in battle to make their hair harder to grab and use against them
Viking men and women are often depicted to be wild, dirty savages however it is well documented in history that they held hygiene and cleanliness in the highest regard, particular when it came to their hair
Viking braids often consist of many different braids and twists usually merging into one or two braids, securely fastened with multiple bands of rope or cord

In this unit you will observe demonstrations and carry out practice on the following braid and twist types...

​Cornrows

​French Plait

​Fishtail

​Flat Twists

2 Strand Twists

Cornrows/Canerows

The hair is sectioned into rows or tracks and braided with three strands close to the scalp.
With each new wind, another small section of hair is picked up and added to the braid. Winding the sections over will create a flat braid - winding under will produce a braid that sits on top of the row

• The term Cornrow, referred to as Canerow in Caribbean culture, originated between the 16th and 19th century as a direct result of the mass slavery of African people and was named after the agricultural fields that enslaved people worked.

• When African people were first ripped from their homes and brought to the 'new world', they had their heads shaved to take away their cultural identity. Growing back their hair and wearing Cornrows helped African people reclaim their heritage and power and also gave them a tool to transfer information. Those enslaved would wear their Cornrows in different patterns to relay messages and create maps to aid escape.

Cornrows/Canerows

• Depictions of people with Cornrows have been found in Stone Age paintings in the Sahara, Africa, dating back to at least 3000BC - 5000 years ago!

• Ancient Egyptians wore the braided style adorned with gold thread, cuffs and other delicacies 3000 years ago and people of Native American culture have worn Cornrows for at least 1000 years.

• Historically, Cornrows have been used to signify your tribe or family, your marriage status, wealth, fertility, religion and more. The women of the Himba tribe (above) view their hair as their power. Using a aromatic 'otjize' paste on top of their Cornrows and skin to create a distinctive red glow which symbolizes blood, the essence of life and the earth.

• Cornrows act as a protective style for delicate hair types, curly, coiled and tight textured. Cornrows aid moisture retention and help deter breakage.

Two Strand Twists

A small section is created at the scalp - this could be in small box sections as shown in the image. The section is split into two strands and both strands are twisted in the same direction (for example, clockwise). Both strands are then twisted or wound back on each other in the opposite direction (in this example, anticlockwise) and secured at the end. Two strand twists can be applied in many different sizes and sections.

• A protective style that offers protection and hydration, particularly for curly and coiled hair types.

• They are simple to achieve when installing and removing, and require little maintenance in between applications.

• Two strand twists will work well on any hair type and are also good for preventing tangles at night and in long length hair extensions.

• They can be used to create soft, natural waves without heat and can be manipulate to create volume and texture in hair up.

Flat Twists

• An alternative to Cornrows that many find easier to achieve as it involves twisting two sections of the hair, close to the scalp along a row or track (rather than braiding three sections close to the head. Flat twists will work well on a variety of hair types including natural and relaxed coiled hair.

• Visual appearance and volume will vary depending on hair type, density and texture 1-4.

• Working close to the scalp allows the stylist to create beautiful shapes and patterns in the hair.

• Again, this style is well known for offering protection and promoting moisture retention, leading to healthier hair.

French Plait

Plait placement is decided and the hair is sectioned and split into three sections. To create a french plait the hair is wound over the centre strand repeatedly - with each wind, new hair is picked up and placed into the existing sections.

French Plait

• Basic three strand plait, braided close to the scalp that can be formed in many different ways - from the occipital bone, from the hair line or from the nape. It is usually applied in one, two or three tracks.

• A French Plait spreads the weight and tension of the braid across a larger portion of the scalp creating (certainly initially) which results a more comfortable style on the scalp

• Actually has no connections to France! It was first documented in 1871 in Arthurs Home Magazine. Its thought that the tag “French” was used as France was seen as the capitol of fashion and therefore the style would be considered “continental”

• As most other braids do, it actually originates from North Africa

Fishtail Plait

• Dates back 2500 yrs ago to Ancient Greece where it was popular amongst women who would wear it loose down their backs or wrapped around their heads like a halo

• Considered to be an intricate and time consuming style

• So named as it resembles the skeleton of a fish

• Plait size and placement is discussed and agreed upon - the hair can be braided loose or first put into a ponytail.
  The hair is then split into two clear sections and small piece/strand from the outside of one section is taken and added to the inside of the other section. You then take a small piece from the outside of the other section; add it to the inside of your original section.

  The smaller the pieces you grab from the outside of your ponies, the tighter and more elaborate your finished braid will look.
  When working on the scalp you can adapt your winding method to create a fishtail that sits on top of the scalp - in a Dutch style.

​Considerations to make in consultation

Braiding as a service:

​Preventing

dermatitis

​Preventing cross-infection and infestation

​Questioning clients

​Influencing factors

​Tool requirements

​Product requirements

​As a group, create a mind map with your thoughts regarding each consideration...

Questioning Clients: Key Questions

• What does the client want or like?

• Is there anything they don't want or like?

• Do they have any hair or scalp problems?

• What is their lifestyle like? Can they maintain the look?

• Do they have the right products and equipment to maintain the look at home?

Use open questions to gather as much information as possible. You can also use visual aids such as existing images to ensure you and your client are agreed on the end goal. You should continue checking in on your client to ensure they are happy throughout the service.

Influencing Factors

• Density, texture, porosity and elasticity - will fine/sparse hair achieve the desired effect?

• Hair growth patterns - how might a widows peak or napes whorl effect braid placement?

• Head and face shape - hair is often pulled back off the face when braiding, could this make round faces look rounder? Square faces look more square? How could you combat this?

• Hair length - is it long enough to be braided? Can you braid short hair with added tension? How would this effect client comfort?

• Scalp condition - it can be difficult to clean the hair with braids such as Cornrows. If the scalp is dry or oily, what kind of service could you offer before a braiding service?

• Desired look - is this an event service (for example wedding hair) or a longer term service such as Cornrows? Will the braids need to be removed professionally? Long term braiding can lead to matting to the roots and excessive build up - proper maintanence is essential.

Physical Effects on the Hair

​Hair in it's natural state is referred to as alpha keratin - it contains permanent and temporary bonds that decifer it's natural type - straight, wavy, curled or coiled. When hair is washed it can be stretched and dried into a new, beta keratin state.

Applying braids or twists into wet hair will create the same effect - as the hair dries, the natural heat from the head will help to set it into a beta state that will only revert once the hair has been washed again.

Braiding hair is sometimes referred to as "locking" as beta state can occur without prior washing - this is why with certain hair types, you can braid into dry hair and it will leave a wave without the application of heat.

Braiding hair - Excessive Tension

​If you apply too much tension in a braiding service, it can result in an excess of pressure on the hair and scalp.

This can cause your client discomfort and in a worst case scenario, Traction Alopecia. This is hair loss or thinning due to excessive tension on the follicle. It is particularly common around the hair line and will effect curly and coiled hair more as the hair is generally weaker.

• It is important to ensure that braids are not wound too tight, particularly around the hairline.

• Thicker tracks can be more beneficial to reduce discomfort.

• Clients should change their hairstyle regularly to reduce stress on the scalp and take breaks from the addition of artificial hair

• A lower risk hairstyle such as a two strand twist may be recommended for hair with existing hair loss

​Tools and Equipment

​Tools and Equipment - Securing the hair

As you complete each braid or twist, you must secure it in place effectively with hair grips, clips or bands. Larger braids such as French or fishtail plaits can be secured with covered bands without damaging the hair - smaller elastics may indeed break on thicker braids.

You can finish a look with ribbons, cuffs, beads and other accessories dependant on braid size and client requirements.

​Product Use

• Serum - helps to smooth the cuticle and prevent tangles however, over use can cause overload the hair and make it look oily. It can also cause the hair to slip and make braiding more challenging.

• Gel or Curl Cream - is used to control and smooth the hair, taming and securing stray hairs into the braid wind. Excessive use can cause the hair to feel crispy or look oily.

• Hairspray - used only to finish the look and set stray hairs into place. Excessive use can cause crispiness!

​Follow manufacturers use at all times! In the past, products specifically designed for curly and coiled hair were difficult to purchase outside of a specialist shop however, the accessibility has improved with high street beauty stores such as Superdrug offering a larger range of products specifically designed for people of colour and mixed heritage. Take some time to explore these products, their uses and ingredients to build your awareness and ability to provide inclusive services.

Providing Aftercare

On completion of the service you should provide your client with good aftercare for maintaining their style at home and if necessary, appropriate removal of the plaits and twists to avoid damage.

A small amount of hair loss in more permanent braids can be normal as the braids will catch hair that will fall out as part of our natural hair loss.

We can lose up to 100 hairs a day as part of our natural hair growth and loss cycle!

• You should recommend that you client avoids rubbing or scratching the hair wherever possible to avoid stray hairs and breakage

• You could recommend a silk pillow or bonnet to avoid friction

• Hair should be washed with Effleurage massage movements to avoid disturbing the braid whilst allowing a light cleanse, rinsed gently yet thoroughly to avoid product build up and patted dry

Providing Aftercare

Your client will likely remove their plaits or twists themselves, so it is important to instruct them how to do this to avoid tangling and damage.

• First the bands or grips should be removed to avoid obstructions

• Hair should then be untwisted from point to root, using a brush to detangle as you go.

• When detangling, always work with the direction of the cuticle in stages to avoid damage to the hair structure.

• The tail of a pintail can be useful when working on very tight, small braids to help unwind the centre of the braid.

• Once removed the hair should be cleansed thoroughly to remove dirt, oil and product build up

• A good conditioning treatment should be use to replace any lost moisture and smooth the cuticle, paying particular attention to the ends of the hair.

It's time to braid!

But first, do you feel we have achieved our learning outcomes? Let's review...

Learning Outcome - Can you....

• Identify consultation techniques to determine suitable braids and/or twists for your client

• Demonstrate appropriate tool and product use

• Consider application techniques for your practical session, with the aim to produce cornrows, French and fishtail plaits, two strand and flat twists

• We will now test your skill set and begin building our braid and twist skills - this will start with demonstrations from your tutor for a French and fishtail plait - are there any braids/twists you are confident that you can achieve?