Module F Unit 2 Lesson 2: Ocean Waves

Unit 2 Lesson 2: Ocean Waves

How does an ocean wave form and move?

By the end of this lesson, you should be able to describe the characteristics of ocean waves and what happens as they move through the ocean.

Multiple Choice

Water does not move, _____________ moves.

• Water

• Energy

• Waves

• Fish

Multiple Choice

Which of the following is not a cause of a tsunami? 

• Volcanic eruption

• Tornado

• Submarine earthquakes

• Landslide

Multiple Choice

What is the primary source of energy that generates most ocean waves?

• earthquakes

• wind

• asteriods falling in the ocean

• volcanic eruptions

Multiple Choice

Which statement correctly describes the motion of water particles due to the action of waves?

• they travel from one crest to another

• they move in opposite direction of the wave

• they rise and fall in a circular motion

• they move back and forth

​Wavelength

Wave Period

Mechanical Waves

Tsunami

​Wave

Ocean Wave

Crest

Trough

Unit 2 Lesson 2 Vocabulary

A wave is any disturbance that transfers energy through matter or empty space.

An ocean wave is a disturbance that transfers energy through ocean water.

​

​What is a wave?

​-Two main parts - crests and troughs

-The distance between two adjacent crests or two troughs is a wave length

-Wave amplitude is half the distance between the crest and trough.

Size

- Frequency - The number of waves in a given period of time. Measured in waves/time.

- How much time it takes for a wave to pass a fixed point. Measured in time/wave.

​​Frequency and Wave Period

-How fast a wave travels.

-Calculated as

wave speed (v) = Wavelength (L) x Frequency (F)

- Measured in distance/time.

​​Wave Speed

​What are some properties of a wave?

WIND!

Wind blows across the water's surface and transfers energy to the water.

The longer the wind blows in one direction, the larger the waves will be.

​

What causes ocean waves?

​Water is suddenly thrust up or down to form large waves.

Earthquakes

​Exploding volcano displaces water upward.

Volcanoes

​Energy is transferred outward from the landslide, lifting the sea surface above the landslide.

​​Landslides

​Displaces water causing large waves. If one hit the Atlantic, much of the east coast would be flooded.

​​Space Rock

​Other causes of ocean waves...

​Enegy moves through the water, but the water doesn't move.

Water rises and falls but stays in the same place. Wave energy affects the surface of the water to a depth of about half a wave length.

​What happens when waves move through water?

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- Energy decreases with depth

• The water at the bottom of the wave slows down

- It breaks in shallow water

• Top still moving at speed - gravity

- It transfers energy to the shore - weathering

​

​What happens when a wave reaches the shore?

Multiple Choice

An ocean wave has a wavelength of 8 m and wave period of 4 s. What is the wave speed?

• 2 m/s

• 4 m/s

• 12 m/s

• 32 m/s

Multiple Choice

The diagram below shows the parts of a wave.

Which of the following correctly identifies each part?

• I. crest, II. amplitude, III. wavelength, IV. trough

• I. wavelength, II. crest, III. amplitude, IV. trough

• I. amplitude, II. crest, III. wavelength, IV. trough

• I. amplitude, II. trough, III. wavelength, IV. Crest

Multiple Choice

What distinguishes a tsunami from other types of ocean waves?

• The wave energy of tsunamis increases as the water depth decreases.

• A tsunami forms when a large volume of water is suddenly displaced up or down.

• A tsunami is caused by the disruption of deep ocean currents by volcanic eruptions.

• The wave height of a tsunami is much lower in the center of the ocean than it is near shore.

Multiple Choice

Which statement correctly describes the motion of water particles due to the action of waves?

• They rise and fall in a circular motion.

• They travel from one crest to another.

• They move back and forth as each wave passes.

• They move in the opposite direction of the wave.

Multiple Choice

A _______ is a disturbance that transfers energy through matter.

• Salinity

• Wave

• Temperature  

• Density

Multiple Choice

_____ is how salty is the water

• Salinity

• Wave

• Temperature

• Density

Multiple Choice

.   _____ is how hot or cold is the water

• Salinity

• Wave

• Temperature 

• Density

Multiple Choice

The _____ of a wave is determined by the crest and the trough. 

• Speed

• Frequency

• Size

• Length

Multiple Choice

Wave _____ is the distance between the crest of two waves. 

• Speed

• Frequency

• Size

• Length

Multiple Choice

.  _____ is the number of waves produced in a certain amount of time.  

• Speed

• Frequency

• Size

• Length

Multiple Choice

_____ measures the amount of time it takes a wave to pass a fixed point.

• Salinity

• Frequency

• Temperature

• Period

Multiple Choice

In order to determine wave speed you should

• Divide wavelength by wave period

• Multiple wavelength by wave period

• Add wavelength and wave period

• Subtract wave period from wavelength

Multiple Choice

What causes most waves?

• Gravity

• Wind

• Underwater Volcanoes

• Underwater landslides

Multiple Choice

For an ocean wave, the energy of the wave

• Decrease with depth

• Increases in shallow water

• Both A and B

• Ocean waves do not transfer energy

Multiple Choice

Water does not move, _____________ moves.

• Water

• Energy

• Waves

• Fish