Icons: week 2

Made in Italy and Italian Fashion

Tonight's Agenda

• Recap of last week

• Italian-american icons:

  • Christopher Columbus

• Presentations

• Made in Italy

  • What is it?

  • Problems

• Italian fashion

  • From the origins to now

  • Sustainable fashion

​Icons covered this week:

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Valentino Garavani
Emilio Pucci
Irene Galitzine
Luisa Spagnoli
Brunello Cucinelli
Carlotta Pignatii Costamagna

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​Guido Corbetta , professor of corporate strategy at the Bocconi in Milan, said to newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore:
“We have invented an identity system: the "beautiful" and the "well-made" . Which conveys the positive
perception to which more people in the world aspire."

​Made in Italy

​The 4 "A's" of Made in Italy

​Abbigliamento

Automobili

Arredamento

Agroalimentare

Fashion

Automobiles

Furniture/design

Food

Categorize

Options (12)

Giovanni Rana

Barilla

Nutella

Poltronesofà

Natuzzi

Molteni Mobili

Prada

Diesel

Luxottica

Ferrari

Fiat

Lamborghini

Organize these Made in Italy brands into the right categories

Automobiles

Fashion

Furniture Design

Food products

​Made in Italy

​Symbol of quality, design and prestige.

Problems with
"Made in Italy"

• Founded by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

• Accused of tax evasion (€1 billion )

• Dolce & Gabbana were accused of having created Gado in Luxembourg in 2004, a company deemed fictitious to obtain tax advantages.

Dolce & Gabbana

OPINIONS

D&G, when tax evasion becomes fashionable

by Antonio Tricarico — March 27, 2014

The attorney general of Milan has asked to cancel the sentence that condemned Dolce and Gabbana for tax evasion: "the two [Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana] would make our country great thanks to a company based in Luxembourg.

Dolce and Gabbana, "busy all day with fabrics, models, receptions", are "creatives" at work. With these words, the attorney general of the Court of Appeal of Milan does not imagine the two stylists managing "tax abatement" schemes, and for this reason at the beginning of the week, surprisingly, he declared to the judges of the Court of Appeal that the public prosecution will ask to annul the first instance sentence. 

If all the supposedly large industrial capitals committed themselves to only making Italy great abroad by not paying taxes - precisely because they were too busy -, what would be left for those who pay taxes to do everyday?

It's a shame that none of the old and new patriots of Italian politics - increasingly numerous - have the courage to raise their voice against the big Italian brands. Are they perhaps too creative and busy to pay taxes in Italy?

Italian Fashion

Haute Couture

Officially begins in 1700/1800s, can essentially date back to courts of the kings and queens of Europe.

Rose Bertin

Rose Bertin (French)

• First celebrity fashion designer

• Marie Antoinette made her the unofficial "minister of fashion".

• Began Haute Couture.

​Robe à la française

Chemise à la Reine

Yves Saint Laurent

​Is the first big designer to adopt the Prêt-à-Porter model

​Prêt-à-porter vs. Fast Fashion

​​Group 1:

You must make 20
t-shirts each in 5 minutes.

​​Group 2:

You must make 5
t-shirts each in 5 minutes.

​​Group 3:

You must make 2
t-shirts each in 5 minutes.

​​Group 1:

1% of a candy per garment

​​Group 2:

2% of a candy

​​Group 3:

1 candy bars/hr =Men
.5 candy bar/hr = Women

​Pay day

Prêt-à-porter vs. Fast Fashion

​Zara accused of inhumane conditions in their Brazilian factories.
Plans to use only sustainable materials by 2025

They signed on to the Bangladesh Accord. It is an agreement to ensure safety for Bangladesh workers by not working with factories that don’t provide safe work conditions.

​The company’s foundation recently announced a 100 million dollar investment to get consumers to recycle clothes

Fast Fashion

The company has stolen designs directly from higher-end clothing companies, using the exact same images those companies used to promote them.
Doesn’t disclose any information about the work conditions at their factories.

Prêt-à-Porter vs. Fast Fashion

• Half of Italian consumers are willing to spend up to 20% more on goods and services made in Italy.

• The choice to purchase Made in Italy products takes on particular importance in some strategic sectors for Italy: agriculture/food, catering, tourism and fashion/clothing.

• Counterfeiting of Made in Italy products is an increasingly worrying threat for businesses and the Italian economy.

• What: survey

• Who: 1,000 Italians (age 18-74)

• When: June,2022

Italian Fashion

• Marshall Plan

  • The US loaned money and raw materials to aid the Italian Textile sector.

  • The compensation was in terms of exports to America.

  • Around $1.4 billion.

A few fashion icons...

French Fashion concentrated on haute couture.

Italian fashion concentrated on prêt-à-porter.

Italian Fashion

​Valentino Garavani

• Italian aristocrat, Marchese di Barsento.

• Known for his use of geometric, kaleidoscopic prints.

Emilio Pucci

• Comes from an old and noble Florentine family.

• He lived for many years in Palazzo Pucci.

Emilio Pucci

• Served in the Italian air force during WWII.

• Was a confidant to Benito Mussolini's oldest daughter, Edda.

  • Husband= Count Galeazzo Ciano

• In 1944, he helped save her husband's life by bartering with the Gestapo.

• Drove Edda to Swiss boarder.

• He attempted to escape Switzerland and was caught and tortured.

• He escaped and went to Switzerland.

Emilio Pucci

• Princess from Russia (modern day Georgia).

• She and her family were forced out of Russia by the Bolsheviks.

• Worked for an Italian fashion house for 3 years.

• In 1946, she started her own house.

• Known for inventing the palazzo pajama

Irene Galitzine

• Italian business woman

• Started two major Italian companies:

  • Luisa Spagnoli

  • Perugina

Luisa Spagnoli 1877-1935

Fashion with a purpose....

Harmony between:
Environmental sustainability;
Economic sustainability;
Moral sustainability;
Cultural sustainability.

​"From an environmental point of view, "at the end of the year we decided to make our commitment measurable by communicating the objective of reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 60% in terms of economic intensity by 2028." - Ansa.it

• Fiscatech has been making materials and high-end accessories.

• 50 years ago Rinnova was born.

  • Dedicated to sustainable research.

  • Materials= vegetables

Carlotta Pignatti Costamagna

​​When innovating means winning the sustainability challenge.

We are talking about innovation for sustainability, an ethical commitment that has become an integral part of the industrial philosophy of those would like to challenge the market.
A sustainability statement given with pride and strength, 100% made in Italy, that interprets taste and talent. At the heart of this statement is the capability to fuse technical qualities with innovative aesthetic qualities. Giving life to lines and products characterized by a SustainItaly origin.

​A NEW MATERIAL

​Dedicated from the beginning to responsible fashion, with a strong vision towards innovation and the future, Fiscatech embraces sustainability. In addition to the traditional collections, that represent the heart of 55-year long history, Fiscatech launches a range of new products, realized using unique raw materials that derive from renewable sources.

​The mission

Rinnova
E-Ultra

Circular

​Latex
Polyester from recycled PET bottles

Bibliography

“Cucinelli: Sostenibilità è Ambientale, Economica E Morale - Finanza & Impresa - Ansa.it.” Agenzia ANSA, 10 Jan. 2022, www.ansa.it/ansa2030/notizie/finanza_impresa/2022/01/10/cucinelli-sostenibilita-e-ambientale-economica-e-morale_da8ed9f6-3568-4845-aaf3-834fec01373e.html.

De Long, J. Bradford & Barry Eichengreen, “The Marshall Plan: History’s Most Successful Structural Adjustment Program,” Economics Open Papers, University of California at Berkeley, 1991, 14.

Garton, Christina. “Marie Antoinette and Muslin Disease.” Handwoven, Handwoven, 2019, handwovenmagazine.com/marie-antoinette-muslin-disease/.

"Made-In-County-Index." Statista - the Statistics Portal, 2017, www.statista.com/page/Made-In-Country-Index.

Miller, Meg. “How Italy Became a Powerhouse in the Fashion Industry.” Fast Company, Fast Company, 14 Jan. 2016, www.fastcompany.com/3055408/how-italy-became-a-powerhouse-in-the-fashion-industry#:~:text=In%20an%20effort%20to%20restore,small%2C%20family%2Downed%20operations.

Orrico, Mauro. “Quanto Vale Il Made in Italy. Tra Eccellenze E Innovazione.” FACE Magazine.it, 30 Aug. 2019, www.facemagazine.it/quanto-vale-il-made-in-italy-tra-eccellenze-e-innovazione/.

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Rossi, Giulia. “Sustainability in Fashion: A Need, A Wish, A Trend.” Anthropology and Ethnology Open Access Journal, 2021.

Rovere, Enrico, and Marco De Bernardin. “Made in Italy” Survey: La Percezione Del Valore Del Brand Da Parte Dei Consumatori Italiani. 25 Oct. 2022, www.kroll.com/it-it/centro-informazioni/pubblicazioni/la-percezione-del-valore-del-brand-da-parte-dei-consumatori-italiani.

“The Real Costs of Made in Italy.” Ad Hoc Atelier, 2022, adhocatelier.it/blogs/magazine/the-real-costs-of-made-in-italy.

“Sustainitaly - Fiscatech.” Fiscatech, 28 Feb. 2023, www.fiscatech.com/sustainitaly/.

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Bibliography

“The Real Costs of Made in Italy.” Ad Hoc Atelier, 2022, adhocatelier.it/blogs/magazine/the-real-costs-of-made-in-italy.

“Sustainitaly - Fiscatech.” Fiscatech, 28 Feb. 2023, www.fiscatech.com/sustainitaly/.

F. Q. “Dolce E Gabbana Assolti Da Evasione Fiscale ‘per Non Aver Commesso Il Fatto.’” Il Fatto Quotidiano, Il Fatto Quotidiano, 24 Oct. 2014, www.ilfattoquotidiano.it/2014/10/24/dolce-gabbana-assolti-frode-fiscale-per-non-aver-commesso-fatto/1169855/.

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