Seams and Seam Finishes

Seams and Seam
Finishes

Family and consumer science

Objectives

At the end of the lesson students will be able to:

Define what a seam is in clothing construction.

List any two types of seams.

State the purpose of a seam finish.

Discuss the common seams and seam finishes.

Construct a plain seam and one seam finish.

What is a Seam?

Row or line of stitching
resulting in holding two layers
of fabric together.

Primary function of a seam
is to:

1. Secure apparel components

together.

2. Provide strength and

durability.

3. Extend the life of the

apparel item.

Multiple Choice

What is a Seam?

• It is the joining of two or more pieces of fabric with a needle and thread

• It is the joining of two or more pieces of fabric with a needle and thread

• The crease in a pants leg

• The folding of a garment

• The space between two columns

Multiple Choice

A primary function of seams is for durability.

• True

• False

Types of Seams

 Plain seam

 Flat-felled

Seam

 French Seam

Multiple Choice

What are the 3 types of seams?

• Plain

  Non Plain

  French

• Plain

  Flat felled

  French

• Plain

  French

  Colored

• Plain

  Flat felled

  Non Plain

Plain Seam

The most

common seam.

Suitable for all

areas of a
garment.

Not suitable for

shear & lace
fabrics.

Plain Seam Construction Steps…

1. Put right sides of fabric together.

2. Secure the threads at the

beginning and end of the seam
(Reverse stitch).

3. Sew a straight seam.

4. Press the seam open.

➢ Fashion Sewing with a

commercial pattern-use 5/8 inch
seam allowance.

Multiple Choice

What should you do to reinforce the stitch?

• Backstitch

• Stitch control

• Stitch Length

• Stitch Width

Flat–felled Seam

 Self Finished Seam

 Decorative

 Strong for heavy

weight fabric

 Functional

 Great choice

whenever raw edges
are not desirable.

 Great seam finish for

denim.

Flat Felled Seam Construction Steps…



Pin the wrong sides of fabric
together.



Stitch a 5/8” standard seam.



Press seam open and then
both seams to one side.



Trim the under-seam
allowance 1/8”.



Fold the edge of the upper
seam allowance under ¼”.
Place it over the trimmed
seam allowance and press.



Stitch close to the folded
edge through all thicknesses.

French Seam

➢ Self Finished Seam

➢ Used on fabrics that

ravel easily

➢ Used so no raw

edges will show

➢ Suitable for sheer

fabrics.

French Seam Construction Steps…

1. Pin the wrong sides of

fabric together.

2.

From the raw edges,
stitch a 3/8” seam. Trim
seam allowance to 1/8”.

3.

Press seam flat to one
side.

4.

Fold the fabric along the
seam line with right sides
together. Press.

5.

Stitch ¼” from the folded
edge.

What is a Seam Finish?

➢ Any method that

stitches or trims seam
allowances to prevent
fraying, improve
strength and apparel
appearance.

➢ Apply finish after seam

has been stitched and
pressed.

Common Finishes:

➢ Pinked and

Stitched

➢ Zigzag

➢ Turned and

Stitched

➢ Overlock (Serged)

Factors To Consider When Choosing A
Seam Finish

➢ Fabrication

➢ Use the apparel

item

➢ Care of the

apparel item

➢ Location of the

seam/seam finish

Pinked and Stitched Seam Finish

Used on firmly

woven fabrics.

Extra row of

stitching
provides
protection
from raveling.

Pinked And Stitched Seam Construction
Steps…

1.

Place fabric right sides
together. Sew a plain
seam. Press seam open.

2.

Trim the edge of the
seam with pinking
shears.

3.

Stitch close to the
about 1/8” from the
pinked edge.

Machine Zigzag Seam Finish

➢ Fast, easy and quick

seam finish for most
fabrics.

➢ Great for knit fabrics.

Machine Zigzag Seam Finish
Construction Steps…

1.

Place fabric rights sides
together.

2.

Stitch a 5/8” plain seam.
Press open.

3.

Using a medium width,
zigzag along the edge of
each seam allowance.

4.

For loosely woven or heavy-
weight fabrics, use a wide
stitch.

Turned And Stitched Seam Finish

➢ Also called hemmed or

clean edge seam.

➢ Forms a narrow, single-

fold hem along the edges
of the seam allowance.

➢ Quick and neat method.

➢ Great seam finish for

light-weight to medium-
weight fabrics.

➢ Gives a

finished
look for
an
unlined
jacket.

Turned And Stitched Seam Finish
Construction Steps…

1. Place fabric right sides

together. Sew a plain
seam. Press seam
open.

2. Press each seam

allowance edge under
¼”.

3. Stitch close to the

folded edge.

Overlock (Serged) seam finish

➢

Great finish for most
fabrics, especially
knits.

➢

Used widely in the
production of apparel.

Overlock/Serged Seam Finish
Construction Steps…

1.

Place right sides of fabric
together.

2.

Stitch a 5/8” seam. Press
open and then to one
side.

3.

Using a serger, serge
along the edge of the
seam.

Quality Checkpoints in Seams
and Seam Finishes

➢ Smooth and even seam in appearance inside and outside of apparel

item.

➢ Even in width throughout.
➢ Pressed open or to one side according to the seam type and it is

used.

➢ Free from bulk.
➢ Smooth, flat, unpuckered seams.
➢ Functional and durable.
➢ Thread should match and be appropriate for the fabric type and

content.

➢ Should be neat and smooth in appearance.
➢ Protect the seam to prevent raveling.
➢ Not be visible on the outside of the apparel item.